Cultural Study: Geisha

As part of my summer of Japanese Culture, I have segued from feudal samurai studies into the more modern day studies. This of course pertains to the Pacific World War II battles (which I've already written about various times), but also a new interest in geisha culture. This interest has emerged as I've embarked on the famous novel, Memoirs of a Geisha by Arthur Golden. I've seen the 2005 movie before which I really enjoyed but still knew quite little about this unique culture. One could make the case that alongside the samurai, the geisha are one of the most iconic cultural traditions of Japan. 

As I've read the book, which I'll later have a full review on, I've been quite fascinated on all the unique customs and structure of this practice. I'll be honest before I began reading this book, I associated geishas as a form of classy prostitutes. However it's not that at all. Geishas are essentially performing artists, who specialize in dance, music, singing, hosting, and the art of conversation. They wear distinctive robes of intricate patterns, known as kimonos. They wear strong makeup with white face paint known as oshiroi. And they wear a traditional hairstyle known as the nihongami, which has a bun in the back with pins and red ribbons. They are essentially the embodiment of beauty and femininity and for this many people will pay highly just for their presence. 

They go thru years of training and it's almost like a cult society, where their life is dedicated to this artform. Their is a system of structure, discipline, obedience, intensive training, and a hierarchy. Most geisha do not get married or have children yet rather stay involved in the geisha community most their lives. This could be either thru mentoring, training, or starting their own geisha house or business. The headquarters of geisha culture is the Gion district of Kyoto, however it spreads throughout Japan. While they do not have a creed or doctrine they practice a philosophy known as the "willow world", which I'd like to further explore in this study. 

Origins of the Geisha

Quite surprisingly the geisha practice did not officially develop until the 1600s during the Edo Period. Of course there were many forms of female courtesans, dancers, and entertainers prior to this, but the artform did not develop until much later. The practice of "pleasure quarters" known as yukaku became common place and legal throughout the 1500s. The highest ranking courtesans were known as oiran, thus already establishing a hierarchy even within the field of prostitution. The oiran was essentially the predecessor to the geisha, as she was not only very beautiful but also well versed in various in music and performance. The visual aesthetics of these women would lay the groundwork for not only the geisha, but also the popular theatre known as kabuki. 

Another important predecessor to the geisha as we know them today, were actually male performers known as taikomochi. These court performers emerged as far back as the 1300s, known as jesters, storytellers, musicians, dancers, party masters, and even advisors to the feudal lords. The female geisha ultimately adopted this practice from the men, with more feminine aesthetics. By the 1700s this form of female entertainer had been identified not as a prostitute but as an artistic performer for social gatherings. By 1750, the first famous geisha Kikuya emerged from Fukagawa, achieving great success not thru sex, but through her skilled singing and shamisen playing. This geisha practice spread slowly throughout Japan, but most primarily in Kyoto's Gion district cattered to upper class private parties. 

Throughout the 1800s the profession had gotten much more organized and was now backed by government regulations that officially declared it was not a form of prostitution. Their popularity quickly grew at the same time as the kabuki theatre, both became beacons of Japanese fashion and cultural entertainment. By 1920 there were approximately 80,000 geisha practicing throughout Japan and were regarded as the elite trendsetters of high-class social life. However with the outbreak of WWII, this popularity ended drastically, and by 1944 most geisha districts were closed. Following the war, the nation was forever changed and many of these geisha found new lifestyles entirely while some did return to similar forms of entertainment. Stricter laws were passed throughout the 1960s, which made it harder for geisha societies to train children. By 1970 the once popular form of social entertainment had become a pastime. While the geisha practice still exists to this day, there are no more then 1000 geishas in Japan. 

Appearance

The geisha has a very distinctive appearance with the intent to emphasize feminine beauty. There are many features to a geisha's ensemble, beginning with their hairstyle, their makeup, and their wardrobe. The makeup is probably the most iconic, with it's white foundation known as oshiroi. The purpose is to illuminate the face with a contrast of the the red lips, black eye liner, and pink blusher. While this overuse of makeup can appear somewhat clownish, on the right girl it can also provide pure visual aesthetics. It's fair to note that this use of white paint makeup was commonplace throughout Europe and France as a symbol of status during this time.

The hairstyle is another distinctive feature of the geisha's appearance, often wore in a style known as the shimada. Similar to the samurai, it's wore with a topknot bun however it has much more intricacy and accessories to it. The hairstyle is the indicator of the geisha's level, either apprentice or professional. The key feature of this style is the red ribbon the is placed at the middle intersection of the back bun. To accompany these red ribbons are long dangling hair-pins or flowers. Once a geisha becomes a professional or more established she can wear a wig, so as not to have to go thru the elaborate styling each day. 

The kimono is their fashion statement, a colorful ensemble of intricate designs and patterns. This is a dress like robe, with long arms and trailing skirts which give off an elegant visual as if they are floating. The robe is held together by a sash known as the obi. The red collar symbolizes apprentice while the white collar symbolizes professional. Another key feature of the geisha's wardrobe are her platform sandals known as okobo. These are a different style of high heels, that lift the geisha from the floor, with a softer step. Geisha take great pride in their embroidered kimonos, which come in all different fabrics, from cotton, linen, polyester, and silk. The hikizuri is considered the most formal of kimono made of fine silk. 

Training Structure

The training process of the geisha begins at a very young age where the girl is likely recruited because of her prosperous beauty. In the early days many a geisha would have begun their training at the age of 6. The young geisha normally moved into houses known as okiya where they would learn from an adopted mother. Most of these young girls came from poor, rural families that simply could not afford the child and were thus sent to serve for their living. The mother of the okiya would raise, feed, clothe, and train the young girl with the intent that she would pay back her debts as a geisha escort. For the first few years of the young girls residency in the okiya, she was mostly a maid and an observer of the geisha customs. 

The proper training stage for a young geisha, known as the shikomi, begins when they start attending classes paid for by the mother of the okiya. A future geisha must spend many hours of intensive training to learn the arts they are expected to have. These arts consist of music classes, singing, and learning how to play the shamisen, three-stringed instrument, the taiko drum, and the fue flute. Dance is also a very important geisha art where the traditional dance of kyomai is best known for it's slow, graceful, and provoking movement. The mastery of tea ceremony, calligraphy, and especially conversation are also essential elements that separate a good geisha from a great geisha. 

The next phase is their apprenticeship where this maiko (apprentice) must follow an established geisha, referred to as their older sister. Here she continues to quietly learn from observation attending parties and other social functions with professional geisha. Normally a maiko is not allowed at a teahouse or an event without their sister geisha. The ceremonial promotion from maiko to geisha is sometimes practiced when a bidder buys their virginity, a tradition known as mizuage (raising the waters). When a maiko graduates to become a geisha (usually at the age of 20 or 21), their collar changes from red to white in a ceremony known as the erikae. She can be fully independent of their okiya mother, once all debts have been paid. She will continue to live in he same okiya for most of her life as she conducts her business as she chooses, often taking on her own apprentices at a fee. A geisha will often have a patron throughout most of her life, known as a danna. 

Traditional Arts

What makes a geisha different then a female escort or prostitute is her intellectual skill in the arts. This incorporates the traditional aspects of Japanese culture. The first and most important skill a geisha has is the art of conversation and hosting. While it may seem trivial, there is no doubt a skill in keeping a conversation lively, humorous, and sincere all at once. Since the geisha are mostly invited to social gatherings they are expected to be the life of the party, by not only showing obedience but also clever engagement with their clients. They are expected to not just be silent observers but to be knowledgably on current affairs, history, the arts, poetry, or literature. This quality brings life to their charming appeal.   

The geisha is also expected to perform for her customers thru her traditional arts of dance and music. The dance known as the nihon buyo is often an expressive one with minimal yet precise movement that displays total elegance. The geisha is also a skilled musician well versed in vocals as well as playing the shamisen, taiko, and fue instruments. They are expected to be masters of the tea ceremony, where they truly display their grace, precision, discipline, and acute awareness. They are also well versed in the Japanese traditions of calligraphy and flower arrangement. 

The Willow World

Although the geisha don't have an official creed or doctrine they follow a way of life known as the karyukai (also known as the willow world). These courtesans are considered like beautiful flowers, who have their blossoming periods yet will also eventually wither. They are also considered like willow trees, who can adapt to any situation with great resilience. They are flexible and appeasing to their clients, but ultimately their roots are stable and grow stronger with age. While it may seem a grim life for most, the geisha take solace in this notion that they are providing an escape for most men, while maintaining their own stability. 

The geisha world is one that appeases others and bends to their desires while still maintaining their foundation. Their world takes place in the geisha districts, a life of servitude as a young child to become like an object of beauty. They don't normally marry or have their own children, and they certainly don't travel or roam freely like a bird. Instead they remain put in this willow world like a stable tree that offers it's leaves and branches to men. These geisha abide by this unofficial code thru their hierarchy and business structure of okiya houses, teahouses, and registry offices. So while most might see Gion or the other red light districts as a form of entertainment and pleasure, from the geisha's perspective this is one of servitude but also artistic fulfillment.