Monday, June 12, 2023

Historical Study: World Colombian Exposition

I recently started reading the book Devil in the White City by Erik Larson and intended to have a book review. However the book is really more of a historical account of the world fair rather then a fictional story. It gives a very detailed account of the planning and preparation that went into the 1893 World Colombian Exposition that took place in Chicago. The planning is mostly from the perspective of the famed architect Daniel Burnham. However it also provides a simultaneous account from the infamous serial killer of the time, H.H. Holmes. With these two accounts going back in forth in a historical timeline, the book provides an incredible insight into Chicago during the 1890s. In this post I don't want to focus on the serial killings, but more so the fair itself in further detail. 

I love everything about Chicago, was born there, and lived there for a year in 2008. However I only recently learned about the Chicago World Fair of 1893, regarded as one the biggest world fairs in history. I wrote about it here in my study of World Fairs, and learned that it is regarded as one of the most famous alongside the Paris Exposition of 1889. This massive event essentially put Chicago on the global map as an American super-city, 2nd only to New York City. Hosted in the south part of the city at Jackson Park for 6 months it attracted over 27 million visitors from all over the world. The event must have been a magical experience far greater then that of a theme park. The architecture was grand scale, the attractions were unending amusements, and electricity was making it's major debut. It was truly a city within a city, one that we can only now imagine thru photos and writings. 

The Construction and Preparation

During the 1880s-1890s the world was experiencing an industrial boom, often referred to as the Gilded Age or the Belle Epoque. World expositions to demonstrate these industrial achievements first became popular in Europe during the 1850s. London hosted the first major one in 1851, followed by several events hosted by Paris. It was in 1889 when Paris shocked the world with it's mammoth Exposition Universelle that debuted the Eiffel Tower as the world's new tallest structure. America saw this as a statement and quickly began planning an event to surpass the scale of the Paris 1889 fair. It was agreed that they would host the fair in 1892 to commemorate the 400 year anniversary of Christopher Columbus discovering America (although the fair did not occur until a year after this).  

America was leading the way during the Gilded Age with industrial innovations that far exceeded the rest of the world. They had already hosted numerous exposition fairs such as in New York (1853), Philadelphia (1876), Louisville (1884) yet none of these matched the scale of the Paris events. Congress began to deliberate over who would host the massive event, either New York City, Chicago, St. Louis, or Washington DC. Major financial titans such as JP Morgan Chase and Vanderbilt offered to fund New York while Chicago investors such as Marshall Field pushed for the event to be there. The decision was finally made not so much due to the financial investments but because of the midwestern location of Chicago. Unlike the compact location of New York City, there was space to build which would make it easier for both the construction and visitors alike. 

The commission of the Chicago Fair chose Daniel Burnham as chief architect of the project. He was a well established architect who alongside his partner John Root, had become the most prominent architecture firm in the city. Aside from building many mansions for Chicago's wealthy elite, particularly those associated to the Union Stock Yards, the Burnam and Root firm also built notable skyscrapers in Chicago including the Rookery Building and the Masonic Temple (which was the tallest building in Chicago from 1895 to 1920). This of course was a special project however and required many other architects to work alongside Burnam such as the famed landscape architect Frederick Olmsted. The design was to be one of a neo-classical city with elaborate and colorful landscaping, yet also one that could be easily brought down. Since it was to be a temporary event, most of the buildings were constructed in wood, covered in plaster, and painted white (Hence it's nickname the White City).

The Architecture of the White City

Despite being built for temporary purposes, the fair still had many noteworthy buildings that resembled the golden age of ancient Greece. At it's entrance coming from the Terminal rail station was the Admin Building which soared into the sky with it's massive domed cupola. This was the center for the fair's event staff, a building that resembled the white house capitol or the St. Paul's Cathedral. Then there was the Manufacturers and Liberal Arts building, a behemoth exhibition hall that stood as the largest building in the world for sheer space volume. Other notable buildings included the Women's Building, the Machinery Building, and the Electricity Building. The only building built for the long term was the Gallery of Fine Arts (done so to protect these expensive gems). It is the only building that still stands to this day now as the Museum of Science and Industry.

The electricity building was one of the more popular attractions within the fairgrounds. The electrical contract of the fair went to Tesla's Westinghouse Electric company instead of Edison's General Electric. Here in this central building were the latest technologies of the kinetoscope, search lights, incubators, seismograph, generators, and so forth. Both Edison and Tesla themselves showed up to the fair to give various demonstrations. Outside the main building there were exterior lights, spotlights, and even fountains with illumination. To see the fair lit up at night in 1893, must have been a very new and surreal experience for most citizens.  

At the center of the fairgrounds was a giant pool basin that housed the impressive Statue of the Republic (one of the iconic symbols of the event). Behind this pool was an impressive peristyle of Greek pillars, connected to a pier with a moving walkway, that overlooked the mighty Lake Michigan. The southern perimeter housed the livestock exhibits as well as the German guns and artillery of Friedrich Krupp. In the waters were replicas of the Columbus ships, as well as various smaller sailboats, gondolas, and foreign rowboats. To the north was the wooded island a popular scenic getaway that housed gardens and the Japanese pagoda surrounded by a lagoon. At the west of the fairgrounds was a long strip of entertainment, known as the Midway Plaisance. This housed all sorts of amusements, rides, and entertainment such as an ice ring and most famously the first ever Ferris Wheel. This behemoth construction was considered the answer to the Eiffel Tower and it's most popular attraction. It stood 264 feet and held 40 cars that could house 60 people at a time.    

Along the perimeter of the fairgrounds were exhibits and buildings from 46 countries and all 50 states represented. The German Pavilion was one of the larger more impressive buildings alongside it's Krupp artillery building. Norway sent a replica of a 9th century Viking ship which sailed across the Atlantic. While the fair was inclusive of most nationalities and even women's rights it failed to bring attention to African American culture. There were many cases in which black citizens were not allowed entry into the main fairgrounds, only the Midway region (which housed most of the indigenous/exotic races) thus the term "White City" was used as a controversial term. Aside from it's controversies, crime, and scandals however the architecture was surreal and groundbreaking. It ushered in a new renaissance of urban development and beautification of cities all across the United States. 

The Fair's Legacy

The fair was ultimately a successful demonstration of American exceptionalism and a great response to the Paris Exposition of 1889. It demonstrated the might of America, yet more so the resilience of Chicago especially after the devastating effects of the Great Chicago Fire of 1871. The fair was later commemorated in Chicago's state flag with a star. Nearly ten years later America would double this effort with it's St. Louis 1904 fair. While the fair covered more area with more exhibits it did not surpass the attendance of the Chicago Exposition. Today world fairs are a thing of the past and none came close to the sheer scale of Chicago's event in 1893. Even modern theme parks and Olympic sites could not compare with this architectural paradise. 

New Inventions and Debuts at the fair

  • The Pledge of Allegiance
  • The term, "Windy City"
  • Cream of Wheat
  • The Brownie
  •  Hershey's Chocolate
  • Juicy Fruit gum
  • Quaker Oats
  • Shredded Wheats
  • Pabst Blue Ribbon beer
  • Aunt Jemima's syrup and pancake mix
  • Cracker Jacks
  • Vienna Beef hot dogs (now a staple of Chicago)
  • 1st Moving Walkway
  • The Ferris Wheel
As the fair ended, the city was shocked by the assassination of their mayor Carter Harrison, who gave a speech earlier that day. He was murdered by Patrick Prendergast who was upset he did not receive a position the mayor had promised him. The fair came to an official close on Oct 31st with a ceremonial burning of most the temporary buildings. The iconic Ferris Wheel was dissembled and relocated to north Chicago for a while, then to the St. Louis Fair of 1904. It was later used for scrap metal. Today Jackson park remains with the Museum of Science and Industry (the only surviving building of the fair). There is also a golf course, the Japanese garden on the wooded island, and the Midway Plaisance remains as a long grass field connected to the University of Chicago. A replica of the Statue of the Republic also stands at the heart of the park to commemorate this historical event. For six months in the summer of 1893 Chicago had amassed the largest gathering of humans to truly become the center of the world.