Showing posts with label Family. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Family. Show all posts

Sunday, October 11, 2026

Istanbul Trip 2026

I've been looking forward to this trip to Istanbul for the last year now and it did not disappoint. It was arguably one of the most interesting cities I have ever experienced in my lifetime. This is likely because it is the furthest east I have ever been. Everything seemed so foreign and exotic, like a diverse city on Tatooine.  It was my first true immersive experience in a Muslim state, where the religion of Islam is the majority. It was also my first step into Asia, since Istanbul sits between Asia and Europe. I would say it's this gateway position that makes this such an amazing cultural, religious, and historic city. I haven't felt this inspired by a trip since Medellin 2024, and I would definitely return to Istanbul again if I get a chance. 

I think I started my preparation for this one as far back as last fall as I was reading the book The Historian. A good portion of the book took place in Istanbul as it was the home of Mehmed II who not only conquered the Byzantine Empire but also overcame Vlad the Impaler. After reading this book it inspired a deep historical dive into Mehmed II, one of the greatest conquerors in history. During the wintertime I pivoted to Central European history studies, which unexpectedly led to a deep dive into Christianity. This became one of my most immersive theological studies to date and it was no doubt leading towards my trip to Turkey. During these studies of the early church I discovered that Turkey could be considered the foundation of early Christianity due to it's key ecumenical councils at Nicaea, Constantinople, Ephesus, and Chalcedon. After that thorough study I made a brief pivot to Islam by exploring it's pillars and similarities with Christianity. This area still has me very fascinated in regards to it's relation with Christianity and it's geopolitical landscape (which begins with Istanbul as the gateway to the east).

I think I will continue to make some further studies on Islam and the city of Istanbul, but for now I have to recall the details of the trip. Although we saved tons of photos, if I don't write this down now I could lose many of the memories. So this will basically be like a journal going thru the sequential experience I had with my family. I just love reading back at my journals (or looking back at old photos), because it is almost like time-traveling. This trip to Istanbul was by far one of our most challenging, due to the distance but more-so the language barrier. It was a true adventure and it has me so very grateful and inspired that we could make the trip successfully. 

Day 1- The Voyage

This has become a new annual tradition to take a major foreign trip in October going back to Dominican Republic, Colombia, and Brazil. This however was my first trip to Europe since 2022 and my first ever trip to Western Asia and the Middle East. I actually wasn't too concerned about safety issues, since most of us have darker complexions due to our Latin heritage (except for my dad). I've often been identified many times as an Arab, which is understandable if you consider that Spain was under Muslim rule for nearly 800 years. I for one am not ashamed of this association and feel the Middle East often gets a bad wrap due to several pockets of extremism. It is an area rich of history, and has it's bad eggs no different than any other race or culture. So I'm glad I had a general understanding of Islam before I set foot in Turkey which is 80% Muslim.

Our flight was out of Chicago on a Friday afternoon on Turkish Airlines. Thankfully it was a direct flight, albeit a long 10-11 hours straight. Dad, mom, Andres, and myself awoke very early Friday morning to make the drive from Fort Wayne to O'Hare Airport. We had Burger King for breakfast at Valparaiso and got to Chicago by around 9am.We met Gabriel at the airport and all boarded the plane together for take-off at 11:30am. The flight was especially a warm one and I had to go to the bathroom several times. I watched three good new release movies however to help pass the time (Good Luck, Have Fun, Don't Die; Sentimental Value; The Drama). We got two decent meals on the trip and were also allowed snacks in the back of the plane. 

We arrived around 6:30am local time (11:30 eastern time). I was very surprised at how quick and smooth the international customs phase was. We were in-and-out of the Istanbul airport within 30 minutes. Even the taxi pickup went fairly smooth, as I had arranged the pickup thru Expedia. The taxi drive was about an hour from the airport to the Sultanhan Hotel located in the Fatih district (Gabriel and Dad got a little motion sickness during the trip). I had chosen this hotel since it was in the heart of the Old City very close the most famous and historic mosques such as the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Suleyman Mosque, and the New Mosque. The front-desk attendants were very friendly, and although we were early for check-in they allowed us to eat breakfast (and even invited Gabriel who was staying at a different hotel in the Galata district). The breakfast buffet on the 6th floor offered an amazing view of the city which gave us our first true glimpse of the impressive Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque. We got into our room by around 9am and slept for a few hours. 

Day 2- First Exploration of Sultanahmet 

Our room had 3 beds in it, with some charming vintage furniture in it. Andres slept by the bathroom, mom-and-dad in the middle, and I slept by the window. I especially enjoyed the cool breeze coming in and the sounds of the bustling city. We slept for maybe 2 to 3 hours that day before deciding to begin our first wave of exploration around 3pm local time. I bought an international data plan thru T-mobile for the week to help us navigate the city. We walked along the main road Divanyolu Cd which was the main tram-line going north-and-west from Fatih to Galata. I had studied the metro lines and felt this would be an efficient way to navigate the city (vs spending a fortune on Ubers). Although it did take a little bit to get use to, (and I wasted some money figuring out how to put a balance on my card), I'd say we still saved a ton by using this mainline the entire week.

After buying transit cards at the train stop, we then walked over to the Sultanahmet square, the heart of the Fatih district. This area was unsurprisingly loaded with tourists as it consisted of the main landmarks, Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern, the Obelisk of Theodosius, and the Hippodrome of Constantinople. The first up-close landmark we saw was the German Fountain which was actually a more recent addition to the center in 1898 commemorating German Emperor Wilhelm II. We then got an up-close look at the Obelisk of Theodosius which is one of the oldest structures in the city going back to the Egyptian age of 1450 BC. Then walking into the courtyard of the Blue Mosque was truly awe-inspiring. We then walked by the Hagia Sophia which I was quite disappointed to see it under renovation (same thing happened when seeing the Parliament building in London).  We then got an up-close look at the Fountain of Ahmed III (1728) and the Imperial Gate of the Topkapi Palace (1465). The Topkapi Palace was the imperial home of the Ottoman Empire, however unfortunately it cost money to see the grounds (which also included the Hagia Irene).

We eventually met up with Gabriel and took lots of photos around the historical landmarks. Of course by this point there was hunger brewing and we impulsively decided to take the train north to Gabriel's hotel district. This was our first ride on the subway and we crossed the Galata Bridge. We eventually found a nice restaurant with an incredible view overlooking the Golden Horn. This was our most luxurious experience with a feast of drinks, sea bass, lamb, chicken, vegetables, rice, and various sauces and breads. The food was exceptional however also a very costly experience at around 60$ a piece. We took some of our best photos from that viewpoint, and although it was a pricey evening, it was the perfect way to start our week in Istanbul. We were also entertained by the majestic seagulls and the abundant street cats who were constantly looking for food (similar to Athens, Greece).

After dinner that night we decided to walk back to our hotel across the Galata Bridge. The view from across the bridge at night was immaculate aligned with fishermen, the sunset, boats galore, and the illuminated mosques. The walk home was a challenging navigation of twists and turns thru cobblestone streets, steep hills, dark alleys, and bustling marketplaces. My mom especially enjoyed the cheap prices and decided she wanted to return to shop here the next day. We later discovered we were walking thru the outer street markets of the Grand Bazaar(which basically went in every direction). As we got close to our hotel, I bought a variety pack of baklava dessert to share with everyone which cost me around 18$. It was very rich and tasty and got us thru several nights. I think we made it back to our hotel room around 8-9pm and went to bed shortly after. At one point we all awoke around 2am still getting use to the time difference. Andres decided to explore the night streets for some late night food (unsuccessfully however). 

Day 3- St. Anthony of Padua and Galata Tower

That morning after breakfast dad and I planned to go to Sunday morning mass, while mom and Andres met up with Gabriel. We took the tram line north to the Tophane stop and walked up a very steep hill to get to the Church of St. Anthony of Padua. It was one of the few Catholic Churches in Istanbul, however had quite the impressive exterior facade. I had presumed we would get the traditional Latin mass, but it was actually quite a modern progressive one. Although we were graced by the presence of the bishop, the choir was the standout piece for me. It was a group of Philippine women that had the most angelic of voices and harmony (especially their responsorial psalm). 

After mass we walked along a busy street (the Istiklal Cd) which was filled with shops, pedestrians, and a charming trolley line. We then met up with Gabriel, mom, and Andres at the Galata tower. This was an iconic landmark that was built by the Genoese Italian merchants in 1348. We decided not to pay the 30$ to climb to the top and wait forever in line. However we did stop at a nice cafe directly across from the tower, where I had my first Turkish Coffee. After this drink we decided to walk back through the Istiklal street as well as see the church again. This was basically a reverse trip for dad-and-I back to transit station but new territory for mom, Andres, and Gabriel. We then took the train-line straight from Tophane to the Grand Bazaar (however discovered that the Bazaar was closed on Sundays). After a little more shopping in the street markets we found a restaurant located within a cemetery. The food was affordable however very unsatisfactory. We dropped in on a cheap grocery store before heading back to our hotel to rest a little more.

That evening mom led the charge as we walked back thru the street markets headed northward to the southern point of the Galata Bridge (at the Eminonu Terminal). We arranged for Gabriel to meet us for dinner at this booming seaport. We walked thru the Egyptian Bazaar and got a close-up look at the Yeni Cami Mosque (also known as the New Mosque). For dinner we found a fairly priced location with typical Turkish food and friendly service. I ordered my first Turkish doner here (similar to a gyro but with a thinner wrap). Dad ordered his first fish wrap and I think mom got some beef and rice. It was here we became aware of their complimentary tea custom to close out each meal. After some more shopping and photos we walked back to the hotel to have some more baklava and snacks before bed. I slept terrible that night and could not fall back asleep after 3am. I was able to stream the Lions game however who were playing Sunday Night Football back in the states (unfortunately they lost to the Panthers).

Day 4- Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and the Grand Bazaar

After a rough night of sleep I was still very excited to set foot inside the historic Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque. I realized that not everyone else shared my enthusiasm for these landmarks so I had to make the most of it. After breakfast we first made our way back to the Sultanahmet square to see the Blue Mosque. Thankfully it was free to enter as long as we were wearing pants, shoes off, and hair covered for the women. The line was surprisingly short and it took us no longer then ten minutes to get inside. I found the inner chambers to be quite mesmerizing, loaded with intricate artwork, lamps, stained-glass windows, geometrical patterns, and calligraphy. It was quite different from our typical Christian church structure of pews and a front altarpiece, rather an open-spaced floorplan with carpet. It was clear that this type of space was strictly meant for total prostration, knees to the ground in prayer-and-worship. Dad of course was not impressed by the structure, however I think the rest of us felt the spiritual presence of it all. Even if you didn't feel the godly presence it could still be admired for it's aesthetic artwork, like a grand museum, and I of course took many photos.

After this we made our way to the Hagia Sophia, where I was devastated to discover the entry was not free. My research had told me it was free entry just like all other mosques, however I learned the circumstances was different in this case since the building was under renovation. After asking around, I painfully decided to pay an overpriced 50$ to enter the 2nd level of the building. This would be a solo experience since dad, mom, and Andres did not want to pay that kind of money (understandably so as it was very overpriced). So I took the camera and slowly walked thru the ancient corridors of this historic building built by Justinian in 537 AD. Just seeing the stone walls it was clear to see this was one of the oldest buildings I had ever been inside (maybe alongside the Pantheon of Rome).

When I made it to the 2nd level, I saw the open main chamber with it's massive central dome. Unfortunately much of it was covered by drapes and scaffolding which really took away from the experience. I couldn't even see the famous seraphim angels surrounding the central ceiling dome. Perhaps the most striking feature were the massive Islamic calligraphic medallions which bear the names of Allah, Muhammad, and the caliphs. Even after this however I was still quite unsatisfied until I saw the famous Christian mosaics in the southern upper gallery. These are considered some of the greatest works of Byzantine Christian art, most especially the Deesis, which depicts the iconic Christ Pantocrator. This is arguably one of the most famous depictions of Jesus Christ, and I'm very glad I got to see it in person. I would compare this to the Mona Lisa of Christian art. It somehow made the experience feel all the more special and worthwhile (albeit still overpriced).

As I was having my own historical experience, mom and Andres both scheduled hair appointments while dad tagged alone. I eventually made it back to the hotel to rest for a while. We all regrouped in the hotel room, where mom and dad shared their experience of being ripped off at the salon. They were also highly overcharged for a hair and facial treatment (spending over $500). Andres also had a pricey haircut, but nowhere near as much. I think we all felt quite ripped off that morning, but mom once again took it in good stride and encouraged us to get over it. After a little bit of rest we pressed on for phase two. We regrouped with Gabriel and decided to walk to the Grand Bazaar to do some more shopping. 

The Grand Bazaar is another very historic feature of the city, dating back to the early Ottoman Conquest. The covered building was erected in the 1460s to house valuable items mostly jewelry. It kind of felt like a giant mall selling everything imaginable. I think my mom wasn't as impressed with the higher prices and we didn't really make any shopping stops. We did however stop at another cafe where I bought dad a Turkish coffee. After this we left the indoor Bazaar and I was able to convince everyone to drop in on the Suleyman Mosque. This was the shrine of Suleyman the Magnificent built in  the 1550s. Only dad and I went inside, but it's interior was just as impressive as the Blue Mosque. I took lots of photos, especially of our amazing view from outside the Mosque that was perched on a hill looking towards the Golden Horn. 

After this we continued through the street markets and found a busy lunch spot with typical Turkish food. I ordered my second doner at this point and this time everything was affordable and enjoyable. We all got a laugh at our host who was very loud and persistent. This of course was the norm among all Turkish salesman who were constantly standing in front of their stores or restaurants trying to lure us in thru aggressive and pushy peddling. Mom ordered some very tasty Kunefe here at this place with a side of ice cream that was some of the best dessert we had (aside from the Turkish delights). We eventually walked all the way to the Eminonu pier once again and I impulsively dropped in on the Yeni Camii (New Mosque). This time I went inside on my own, which happened to be my fourth mosque visit of the day. I also came to enjoy the adhan prayers that were recited over speakers during the prayer times from the Mosques. The singing was somewhat eerie but beautiful at the same time, which truly added to this other-worldly feeling of Istanbul.

We eventually went back to the hotel to rest a little more, and I for one was about spent at the point. But mom surprisingly led a third phase that evening for dinner. This time I believe we took the train once again to meet Gabriel at the Karakoy district in the Galata region. I ordered a very tasty meal like a cheesy steak pizza boat. I think after this we might have walked around the very charming boulevard that seemed to cater more to nightlife and drinking festivities. I don't think we stayed out too late after this however. I was very exhausted from what turned out to be a very memorably day of sightseeing, shopping, lots of walking, and great food. 

Day 5- Ferry to the Asian side

On Tuesday we planned to take the ferry from the Eminonu terminal to the Asian side of Istanbul. We decided to let Gabriel plan and lead the day, since he had been somewhat left out of the previous excursions. I for one would have liked to explore the northern side of Uskudar, however Gabriel took us to the southern side of Kadikoy. The ferry ride was an enjoyable one on a perfect sunny day. Dad and Gabriel were feeling seasick once again so decided to stay inside with mom, while Andres and I enjoyed the views from outside the boat deck. We later all sat together to watch a live guitarist playing traditional Turkish music inside. Once we landed I was impressed how quick and easy the boarding-and-offboarding process was. 

Getting off at the Kadikoy terminal was my first official step into Asia and it immediately felt like eastern Europe. That first road along the Asian coastline was slummy reminding me of the train station of Brno, Czech Republic. However surprisingly when we made it more into the shopping district, things came to life and it turned out to be an enjoyable afternoon. Just as with the western side, there were stores, restaurants, and bars going in every direction. Gabriel was keen that we just sit down and not sightsee today, which was fine by me to do some people watching. Andres was wearing an Assassin's Creed outfit and took lots of cool photos in the streets. We first stopped at a couple bars and ordered some drinks, before making our way to a seafood restaurant. The menu was quite pricey so I just had a beer and an appetizer of sauce and bread. Mom continued to shop and we eventually made our way to a iconic bull statue (reminiscent of the Wall Street NYC Bull). 

We then took the ferry back to the Eminonu Terminal and decided to rest at Gabriel's new hotel room. He decided to change rooms because his AC wasn't working too well at his first hotel. Andres parted ways with us to meet up with a friend that evening. I remember it was around this time that I discovered a good portion of our digital Nikon photos were missing, which had me bothered (since I had taken a lot of photos the previous days at the mosques). After a little bit of resting we went back to the Karakoy bar strip to get some pre-game drinks and find a dinner spot. We found a good deal on Happy Hour beers where they were playing some good techno music. I began to enjoy myself and get over the whole missing photos ordeal. For dinner we found a burger joint where I ordered a tasty hamburger and fries. We were once again quite entertained by people watching, cat watching, the ezan prayer chants, and just the overall vibe of the city. 

After dinner we walked a little more around Karakoy, the Galata Bridge, and the Eminonu Pier. I bought a nice North Face sweater in a shop near the bridge, no doubt a counterfeit knock-off but still a good looking sweater at a cheap price. Gabriel parted ways with us at this point as mom, dad, and I took a different route back to our hotel. I believe we took a more direct route along the Ankara road heading southward towards out hotel (seeking to avoid some of the twists-and-turns of the western market route). That night in the hotel room while mom-and-dad were saying the Rosary I was able to locate the missing photos. I found they had been saved under RAW format instead of the usual JPEG format. This was a great relief, as I was even considering revisiting the Blue Mosque to take some new photos.

Day 6- Street Markets and Night Cruise

After breakfast that day we decided to do a full-on shopping excursion of the Grand Bazaar and all the street markets. I think Gabriel and Andres were also joining mom in the shopping spirit. Although the prices were very good, I had to be a little more cautious since my budget was a little tighter at the time. I did however still need to get some souvenirs which included my usual magnet, scarf, plates, and landmark replica models. I brought the Nikon camera along and took some great vibrant shots of the market in action. Once again we were getting bombarded with salesmanship from all angles but this of course added to the experience. Especially walking shoulder-to-shoulder with all forms of ethnicities while the motorbikes weaved around the pedestrians. The women draped in their hijabs or burkas added to the mystical appeal. There was also a strange flux of hair and lip implants that seemed to be the trend of the people. It all felt so alien to me, reminding me of Aladdin or a far-off metropolis from Star Wars.

For lunch we found a fair-priced sandwich restaurant right in the heart of the marketplace. I once again ordered a doner sandwich with a Fanta. As we were eating we were approached by an herbal tea salesmen who offered us some tea and Turkish delight. This convinced mom to check out the merchants' store, who then spent a good half-hour buying tea from the guy. The tea was actually quite medicinal like drinking a form of cough syrup. After this we went back to the hotel to rest for a while before our big night cruise. I had booked us a night dinner cruise along the Bosphorus river which was going to be like our main event of the trip. I got a little scare when the reservation was cancelled but I managed to book a different one with a similar service at only 30$ a person. This was a great deal since it included a 3 hour trip around the Golden Horn, a full course meal, unlimited soft drinks, and traditional Turkish entertainment. The cruise was not until 8:30pm however which meant a much latter night then usual for us. 

After some good rest, Andres went back out to reunite with his friend while mom, dad, and myself joined Gabriel once again in the Karakoy bar strip. This was our third consecutive night at Karakoy having some pre-game drinks. This time I wore my new North Face fleece and was feeling pretty good after a couple drinks. As we were sitting at the bar strip people watching, we randomly saw Andres and his friend walk by. This was a total chance encounter, but mom invited his friend to join us for the night. His name was Resul and he was actually a very friendly guy and helped us with the language barriers. Before we boarded the boat, dad and I decided to buy a pack of cigarettes, which were incredibly cheap at around 4$. I had been craving a smoke all trip whether hookah, cigar, or a cigarette since it was just everywhere throughout the city. Dad of course was also onboard.

From this point on it was nice to have Resul as our guide as we took the train north to the Kabatas station then boarded the Lufer cruise line. The diner hall inside the boat was quite packed and warm, but it felt nice once we were able to step outside. Our salad and appetizer was already waiting for us as we took our seats. We then walked around outside and enjoyed the views of the city at night. Gabriel and Dad were once again getting seasick and stayed indoors most the night. I took lots of photos of the city along the river, which included some new landmarks such as the Dolmabache Palace, the Maiden's Tower, and the Buyuk Mecidiye Camii Mosque. Going under the Bosphorus Bridge was also quite incredible. The night photos did not come out so well on the Nikon camera, however were better on my mobile phone. 

The entertainment inside included the traditional whirling dervishes as well as other Turkish folk dances (unfortunately I missed the belly dancer, but thankfully that meant I didn't have to cough up extra lira cash). Towards the end they started inviting everyone on the dance floor with the Macarena and other hips songs. Mom had a real good time dancing to some salsa music. Overall it was an enjoyable night on the boat, and surprisingly we didn't buy any drinks from the bar. We got back to the Kabatas station around 11:30 and took the train line straight to our hotel. That evening I remember pigging out on Turkish delights which we had bought earlier from the street markets. I decided they were my new favorite Turkish deserts, even more so then the baklava.   

Day 7- Final Day

We were all slow to wake up the next morning, since we didn't get to bed till 1am. I think it was around 9am when we finally made it to breakfast and Gabriel already had an early start on the day and met us at our hotel room. We agreed to divide and conquer since we all had slightly different feels for the day with it being our last day. Gabriel and mom wanted to continue to shop, while Andres wanted to hit the gym, and I wanted to do one last sightseeing walk. I was able to get dad to join me back to the Sultanahmet Square where we did another pass of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. Outside the Hagia Sophia I saw a hypnotic artwork of the Christ Pantocrator for sale and was able to barter with the merchant. The price was 20$, but since I only had 9$ he agreed to sell it to me. This was the last of my Turkish lira, and I was quite happy with the purchase. After this dad-and-I walked to the southern coastline overlooking the Sea of Marmara. This was by no means an easy journey as we had to cross a busy interstate, but I think it was quite worth it to sit on a bench and enjoy the view of the sea. We also stopped at the Little Hagia Sophia along the way.

After this we regrouped at the hotel room, and dad was pretty wiped out from the long walk. Mom and Gabriel had shopped-till-they-dropped with bags of clothing from the street markets. I wasn't very hungry but decided to join mom, Andres, and Gabriel for a lunch while dad hung back to rest in the hotel room. We found a nice spot near the hotel in the midst of the street markets. It was a bit on the pricey spot, but mom treated us all. I ordered another pizza cheese steak boat (which was good but not as tasty as the one I had ordered earlier in Karkoy). After that we got back to the hotel room and rested and started to pack for our return trip. I had to spend some time with Turkish Airlines getting our boarding passes sorted out. We later met Andres' friend Resul once again for a nice fancy dinner. This was a similar experience as our first pricey feast which included a mixture of various Turkish dishes. It was a rather brief dinner and I think by this point we were all quite exhausted and ready to get some rest. That night before going back in the hotel I had one last cigarette with dad, where we met a Kurdish person down on his luck. His entire family was killed by an earthquake in 2023. We offered him a cigarette then went to sleep by around 10pm. 

Day 8- Return Trip

We hardly got much sleep that night, knowing we had to wake up at 3am. The AC in the room had also stopped working at this point. Thankfully however the taxi driver arrived early and we were able to get the show on the road. Gabriel would not be joining us on the return trip since he had to fly straight to India on business. Our flight was at 6:30am, and we made it to our gate fairly easy with about an hour to spare. The Turkish airport was quite unique in that once you enter your gate you are unable to leave it. There was also four boarding pass checks within the gate which seemed quite odd. Once we boarded the plane I decided to let Andres have my aisle seat while I sat in the middle (since he had to sit in the middle on the way there). I slept for a bit and watched three sub-par movies during the flight (The Voice of Hind Rajab, Solo Mio, and Couture). Thankfully this flight was a lot cooler and seemed to go by much faster than the first trip. 

Our main concern when we arrived was finding our parking spot and hoping the car would start. This had become a frequent issue on several of our last return trips. Going thru international customs in Chicago was once again very quick and easy. We even worked together to board the Transit system back to our parking garage and found our car without much issue. However we were not so lucky with the KIA, which would not start for the 3rd time after a long trip. I was familiar with the process at this point and called the parking line, who was there in about 15 minutes to give us a jump. I drove the first shift to Valparaiso where we had Applebee's for lunch. It was nice to enjoy some real hamburger once again. Dad drove the second shift back to Fort Wayne. We reminisced about the tirp and how much fun we had the way back. We then picked up Max and I stopped briefly at the parents before finishing my final leg to Zionsville. It was a very long day, and I finally got to bed by around 9pm (4am Istanbul time). It was a successful trip full of so many great memories, and will go down as one of my all time favorite family trips. I will certainly plan to continue to read up on this city and hope to someday make another return trip.   

Friday, October 11, 2024

Colombia Trip 2024

This past week I finally set foot in my mother's home country of Colombia for the first time. As part of my heritage, this country has been on my bucket list for some time now.. While my mother grew up in Venezuela, she was actually born in Segovia, Colombia. I've visited Venezuela three times throughout my life (the last time being in 1998) but have never been to Colombia. We planned the trip about a year ago, my mom, dad Ofelia, Andres, and Gabriel. It certainly was an adventure with many ups-and-downs, but ultimately it was a success with many great memories. 

Colombia is a country that often gets a bad reputation due to it's history with cocaine trafficking. However it's arguably one of the most beautiful countries I have ever seen due to it's endless green mountains. I remember Costa Rica had a similar terrain of rolling green plantations, but not to the scale of the Andes mountains. Almost every place we went to, every village to every turn on the road had a heavenly backdrop. Not to mention the people were very friendly and the food was as delicious as I expected. 

Day 1- Traveling to Colombia

We set out on from my house on Wednesday October 3 to catch our flight at 6am. We took Andres' car to the economy airport parking and had to check into the front desk to get our boarding passes printed. I remember one of the older ladies working for American Airlines was not very friendly. We however boarded the plane fine and made it to Miami by about 9am. There we met up with Gabriel and had some breakfast at a hot-dog stand called Nathan's. 

Our flight to Medellin left at about 10:30 am and took a good 3 and a half hours. I was stuck in the middle seat and surrounded by a group of drunk Colombians. I however put my headphones on and watched the movie Frida to make things go by quicker. When we arrived to Medellin, and left the plane outside to walk towards the airport I instantly got a feeling of Deja Vu, reminiscent of arriving to Maracaibo in 1998. However this feeling of excitement quickly simmered when we had to wait for over 2 hours in the migration line. I don't think I'd ever been in a slower line at the airport and made for a rather exhausting experience.

However things only got worse, once we finally cleared all the customs inspections. Our car rental reservation thru Alamo was no longer available. It appeared they just gave it away which I found to be quite shocking and devastating. We were in a state of panic for a little bit, trying to come up with a plan B. My mom wanted to take the bus to Medellin, but it would have been difficult with all our luggage, and then to find a connection to Sopetran. My dad was then able to find a different car rental place, that had a more expensive Chevy Tahoe available. We decided it was our best and only option, however we then ran into bank errors. Luckily the car rental people there were very friendly and allowed us to put down a $500 deposit and return the next day so we could figure out our bank issues.

So finally by around 5pm we had a car to leave the airport and make our 2 hour trip to Sopetran. Gabriel bravely volunteered to drive us thru the hilly roads, and rush-hour traffic of Medellin. This was some of the wildest driving and traffic I had ever seen, with motorcycles everywhere! The motorbikes would weave all around cars, often cutting right thru the middle lanes. Once we cleared the city traffic, driving up-and-down mountains, around tight corners, and steep hills made for more challenging driving. We ate dinner at a highway stop by around 7pm, I ordered some steak, potatoes, an arepa, and my first Colombian beer Aquila. The final approach to our BnB  on country dirt roads was also challenging, but we finally found it by around 8:30pm. We took a quick swim before crashing to sleep.

Day 2- Guatape 

That morning we all woke up quite early to catch the sunrise, and get the first daylight view of our BnB. Gabriel picked an amazing hotel, with a pool and a heavenly view of a valley surrounded by endless green mountains. The neighborhood was surrounded by many animals such as cows, chickens, and all kinds of dogs. Our first step that day was to return to the airport to pay off the car rental. I was still a bit frustrated that morning due to Alamo's car failure, the bank card errors, and also that I couldn't get my mom's international phone service to work (mine did however work). I came up with the idea to visit Guatepe, since we would be driving eastward towards the airport. 

On our way there we first stopped at another highway restaurant for breakfast. I had my first cup of delicious Colombian coffee there as well as an arepa with cheese and shredded beef. I was amazed with the delicious cheese flavor there, which my mom told me was not available in the United States. After breakfast we arrived to the airport and met up with the car rental people. The payment went thru this time, and it was a done deal which was a great relief. We then pressed on to the iconic Penol rock of Guatape, while it began to rain. The rock soars an impressive 656 feet above ground, surrounded by a vast reservoir. This was actually my preferred destination to stay, but I was still quite satisfied with staying at Sopetran.

My dad, Gabriel, Andres, and myself climbed up the 708 steps of the Penol rock and got some high views of the area. I bought some souvenirs before we returned to the car, and it was now my turn to drive since Gabriel was tired. I first drove us to the nearby city of Guatape, which was loaded with tourists. We could not find parking and I had to drive thru the busy streets of Guatape, which was very challenging in the massive Tahoe SUV. We finally did find some parking and walked around the beautiful colorful city. For lunch we had some empanadas, pastelitos, and pastries (which were quite average but still satisfactory). On the way home we stopped at a highway station to buy some beer and wine for dad. We arrived that evening at the BnB and took a nice swim in the pool.

That evening for dinner we went to Sopetran and ate at a nice Mexican/Italian restaurant. I ordered some very tasty tacos and a beer. Everyone enjoyed their meal. We then walked around the main plaza for a little bit at night, and found some desserts as well as a grocery store. The plaza was a typical busy Latin American scene, with the church at it's focal point, a park in the middle, and a square of shops and restaurants. We once again went to bed quite early that night by around 9ish all very exhausted from our busy day of exploring.

Day 3- Sopetran

Probably one of our wildest days occurred on Saturday in Sopetran. My mom had wanted to visit the town market that day and also had planned to visit a local doctor. Andres also made personal plans to get a haircut. The town market was actually quite disappointing and small with maybe no more than 20 small stands. I ordered some empanadas while the others ordered some hallacas. I found a store that sold some coffee and talked with some local women there for a little bit. We then found Andres' barbershop which took over an hour. While this happened, Gabriel, mom, and myself explored the local streets and found the house of the doctor mom had planned to visit later that day. Her appointment was not until 12:30 that afternoon, so after Andres' haircut we decided to visit Santa Fe de Antioquia.

We drove straight to the iconic bridge of Santa Fe known as the Puente Colgnate de Ocidente. It was a long walk from the parking lot to the bridge, which Gabriel, Andres, and myself made while mom, dad, and Ofelia took a small taxi. The bridge was pretty cool, over the Cauca River, which only allowed pedestrian traffic and not automobiles to cross. After we crossed it we ordered some tasty drinks, I got a mango juice. Before returning to Sopetran, we realized Ofelia had lost her purse which led to another distressing moment. Ofelia and Mom were able to take a taxi back to the cafe where we ordered our juices and luckily they found her purse there with the store owner.

By around 1pm we dropped mom off at her doctor's appointment and decided to get some beers and lunch at the Sopetran plaza. We sat outside a bar, surrounded by loud music, amongst the rest of the Sopetran locals conducting their daily business. This quickly became a drunken fest mostly of me and Gabriel testing all the different Colombian beers. We tried about 8 different beers a piece, and decided the Pilsen and Aguila were our favorites. Although the bar did not offer any wine for dad, the bartender was able to provide some spiked juice from a nearby store. Dad also bought us a round of empanadas, pastelitos, and pan con queso and then I did as well. Andres also dropped in on us from time-to-time and bought us some pastries. I remember at that moment realizing how cheap everything was but also how honorable all the people there were. 

We were quite drunk by around 3pm and having a spontaneously good time, but unfortunately mom was not. Her appointment took far too long then she expected and she had to withdraw more money to pay the doctor and also buy some expensive medicine. Dad, Ofelia, and myself went to church at around 5pm while Gabriel went home to rest, and mom and Andres shopped around the plaza. For dinner we went to a restaurant nearby overlooking a hillside. I ordered a typical Colombian dish of chinchurron, eggs, rice, arepa, chorizo, and bean soup. Gabriel said his burger was the best he ever tasted. Unfortunately mom had a light soup and left early since she was not feeling well. That evening at our hotel we swam at the pool for a little before crashing.

Day 4: Medellin

On Sunday morning we drove out to spend the day in the busy and chaotic city of Medellin. My plan was to navigate us thru the town using the metro system. On our way in we stopped at another highway restaurant with an amazing mountain overlook. I ordered a very tasty arepa with cheese and chorizo. It was a rainy morning, but we all enjoyed the setting, the food, our energetic young waitress, and the incredible balcony views. We then continued our drive, and found parking as planned in the Poblado district, a safer more wealthy neighborhood. From there we made a 10-min walk to the metro and bought a balance of 12 fares. 

We took the metro north from Poblado to the Parque Barrio stop at the heart of the city, where the famous Plaza Botero was. It was here we saw the iconic Rafael Uribe Palace of Culture, with it's chess-like architecture. In this plaza are 23 sculptures donated by the famous Colombian artist Fernando Botero. All of the sculptures are made of bronze and have a unique style of obesity. The plaza was loaded with tourists, street performers, but also many beggars. So we moved rather quickly around the main Cultural museum, taking pictures of the sculptures, getting some street food, and then back onto the metro.

We took the metro further north to the Universidad stop to visit the Botanical Garden, one of Ofelia's requests. From the metro stop was a good 15-min walk to the garden, which was free but a rather dull visit. We then searched the area for some street food and made our way into a food court near the metro station. The place was packed and we all went separate ways within the court to buy food. Gabriel and Andres ordered Chinese food, and I settled for some chicken wings and French fries which were not all that good. We found a table upstairs, and dad was raving about this hot dog he ordered, so we ordered some more from a different place. But the hot dog was cold and one of the worse I had ever had. 

After a disappointing time at the garden and lunch, we bought 12 more fares to continue our exploration of the city. I led us south on the Metro line to connect at San Antonio which was packed with soccer fans going to watch the Independiente Medellin match. I had really wanted to see the game, but nobody else did, so I knew that idea was out of the question. We took the metro west to it's last stop at San Javier, then transferred to the cable cars which offered incredible views. These cables cars were used by the lower class residents to reach their homes in the mountains. We took the cable ride all the way around, back to the San Javier metro, back to the San Antonio connection, and back south to Poblado without even having to buy an additional fare.

We then walked back to our parking lot in Poblado, and I had hoped we could have dinner and drinks at this lively social scene but mom and Ofelia were too exhausted from the day. We then returned to Sopetran that evening, and rested and swam in the pool for a little bit. That night mom and Ofelia stayed in while the boys went out for dinner and drinks in Sopetran. I remember we all felt a little out of place without having mom as our key translator. Some of the drunken locals were even making some jokes at us, but we all brushed it off without any problems. We got a beer outside the plaza for a bit, then found a restaurant on the 2nd floor overlooking the plaza. I ordered some steak, rice, and salad and a beer. We also ordered some to-go food for mom. We then bought some desserts and some more beer at the grocery store before returning home for the night.

Day 5- Jardin

That morning I was quite disappointed when I heard mom randomly wanted to visit Jardin for the day. I knew this would be a 3-hour trip in the car we would have to take both ways. She also made plans to paraglide in Jardin, which was something I would have rather done in Medellin. The drive was once again quite difficult, on a one-lane road with continuous sharp turns. We found an empanada store for breakfast along the road and they were actually quite tasty. We finally made it to Jardin by around 11am and it was actually a pretty town. It had colorful buildings similar to Guatape and a beautiful church. The town had a much more peaceful vibe to it, compared to Sopetran, perhaps due to it's abundance of plants in the plaza.

After we found our parking, mom was able to speak with the clerk there and get information on the local paragliding business. The clerk then called in two taxis for us, and we rode them thru town to the paragliding store. There we made reservations at 1:30pm and then Dad, Andres, and I walked back to the town plaza. For lunch we found a store outside the plaza and ordered the usual fried food of empanadas, pastelitos, pan de queso, juices, and coffee. As usual we were joined by begging dogs, I remember this one in particular had such a jovial demeanor about him. After lunch we walked around a bit, and I bought a bag of coffee beans to take home with me. 

We then went back to the paragliding store as our appointment was approaching, but we waited for quite some time. The tour guides finally arrived at around 2pm, and brought us terrible news that the clouds were too unsafe to jump. This was upsetting to all of us, but especially mom who had been looking forward to this for some time. I then took to the wheel to make the long drive back to Sopetran. I remember getting out of Jardin was once again challenging to get thru the narrow streets of pedestrians, while it began to rain. Driving on the main ride was also quite difficult for it's sharp turns, but more so having to pass slower trucks in oncoming traffic. 

For dinner we dropped in on the town of San Geronimo (where our house cleaner was from). I felt like it had quite an Asian (Saigon) feel to it. We went into a supermarket to buy some items, I bought some snacks and such. For dinner we ate at a large steakhouse, called El Mamut which happened to be the best meal we had yet. I ordered churassco "steak" with salad, potatoes, and a bear which was some of the best steak I'd ever had. Our waiter was a chatty young guy, who happened to be from Segovia. For dessert I ordered some incredible ice cream at a store near the restaurant. After this we went back to the BnB to swim a little before bed.

Day 6- Medellin

That Tuesday was to be our last day and I was eager we make it back to Medellin one more time to see Comuna 13. Mom convinced us to drop in once again on the town of San Geronimo for breakfast. Gabriel dropped mom, Ofelia, and myself off at a store while he found parking. From the store we walked around the plaza and found a breakfast restaurant where the other guys joined us. The restaurant was within a hotel and was a nice experience. I once again ordered the arepa, cheese, and chorizo combo with some coffee, and mango juice. After breakfast Gabriel drove us all into Medellin. My plan was to park in Poblado once again for safety reasons, but Gabriel boldly sought parking in Comuna 13 district.     

This region was renown for it's poverty and crime, and I had read it would be best to stay on the main tourist path. We spent some time trying to find parking in this neighborhood, and at one point we almost hit a dead end. We finally got lucky however when a local flagged us down to park in front of his house and he insisted he would guard the car. From there we walked to the main strip of Comuna 13 which was a hill of stairs and escalators surrounded by all sorts of shops and colorful graffiti. It felt like walking thru Venice Beach or something in California that really catered to the hippy crowd. While we continued to climb upward, the views got all the more incredible once again of the Medellin valley. 

I eventually ordered a Michelada drink, which had beer and liquor in it, but I felt was rather overpriced and not that tasty. Dad, Gabriel, and myself continued upward to a bar overlooking the valley and ordered some beer and shots. The trip down was even more enjoyable as we saw some breakdance performers and freestyle rappers. By this point I had a good buzz going. I bought some souvenirs, as well as managed to haggle with a street vendor on a Colombian soccer jersey. We then made our way back to the car and were glad to see it was still in good shape and paid the local a good tip for watching it. 

We left Comuna 13 by around 2pm and then drove to Poblado to visit the wealthy social district of Provenza. We managed to find parking and walked around for a bit, while it began to rain. However the area was more known for it's nightlife scene and just wasn't quite happening. We eventually found a restaurant indoor and all of us ordered the special of the day. This included some soup, rice, salad, and beef. We then walked around a little more and bought some more items, including souvenirs and pastries but did not stay too long in the area due to the rain. 

That evening we returned to the BnB for a little while, swam, and finished off the last of our beers. We then drove back into Sopetran to once again eat at the mountainside restaurant, renown for it's hamburgers. Our waitress was young but very sweet and had such a cute accent. I once again ordered a plate of churrassco "steak" which was also very tasty. Mom ordered the hamburger after hearing Gabriel's reviews but was not as impressed. We all ordered some mango juice and ice cream for dessert. We originally planned to visit Sopetran after this one last time for drinks, but instead went back to the BnB to just relax on our last night. 

Day 7: Guarne

That morning as we set off for the airport, we were quite concerned about our car drop-off (which had a knick on the mirror), our boarding passes, but more so due to Hurricane Milton. This was a reported category 5 hurricane in the Tampa Bay region, and we were unable to reroute our flight. We arrived early and the car drop off went quite smoothly and I managed to get a receipt. However on the drive we received notice that our flight from Miami to Indianapolis was to be delayed until the following day. At this point we figured we would just have to spend the night in the Miami Airport. As we then waited in line to get our boarding passes for Medellin to Miami, we got the update that this flight was also postponed to the following day. So we were now stuck in Medellin for another day. 

However I honestly saw this as okay news, and an opportunity to get a bonus day in this foreign beautiful country. Luckily I did not have any pressing engagements back at home, aside from having to schedule an extra day of dog-sitting for Max. Unfortunately that was not the case for Andres who had planned to go into work on Thursday, and could not find his car keys. Nonetheless we made the best out of a bad situation and booked a hotel near the airport in the town of Guarne. It was one of the cheaper deals I could find but really had no idea what to expect. We were in for quite a surprise. 

We got a taxi to take us to the hotel, and picked up a case of Aquila beer along the way. This hotel happened to be a hostel with a colorful façade and a botanical garden of fountains, plants, and flowers. Furthermore we had the whole campus to ourselves and the host was very accommodating. Since we were his only guests, he ensured we had a car ride back to the airport as well as helped us arrange lunch and dinner without even having to leave the site. It was a very relaxing day on what was a rather magical area. There were hiking trails, green grass, and tropical flowers of all sorts. There were hammocks all over, and various lounge spots with such unique décor of antiques and foreign flare. 

For lunch everyone ordered guisado with soup, beef, plantanos, and rice. Madre then ordered a round of pastries for desert and the host, John, treated us to coffee. We spent most the afternoon just resting and exploring the garden grounds while John played classical Colombian folk music on the speakers. I drank beer and took lots of pictures quite inspired by the plants, which included several coffee plants. John actually gave me some coffee beans pulled from one of the plants and explained to me the process of growing the beans. Although I only understood a little of it, I'm going to attempt to grow these inside my house, but know it's going to be a longshot. 

At nighttime the hostel took on a different magical element, illuminated by lights. We had arroz con pollo for dinner and John offered us a unique drink of pop mixed with beer. Gabriel, Andres, and I then went into the hot tub for a little bit which was the perfect temperature. We tried to go to sleep early that night knowing that we would have to wake up at 3am to get to the airport. It took me a couple hours to finally fall asleep on the top floor of our family cabin. Dad woke us up around 1am, clearly concerned about the flight situation, and it was hard to fall back asleep after that. 

Day 8: Return Trip to Indiana

We all got up and out to the exit of the hostel by around 3am as planned, where the taxi driver would pick us up. It was a long walk however up a very steep hill with our luggage. Furthermore it was raining and the taxi driver showed up a good 20 minutes late. The car was too small to fit us all, so we had to get a 2nd taxi to carry the rest. We got to the airport by around 3:45am and waited at the American Airlines front desk for a little while. It then took an additional long wait for the front desk clerk to get us all checked in with our boarding passes. 

Going thru security was quick and easy, however we once again ran into problems at the Migration checkpoint. Madre was unable to go thru since her Colombian passport was expired. Although her American passport was valid, since she was born in Colombia she also had to present a Colombian passport which was expired. She had to visit the migration manager at the airport to get clearance to leave. Once in the gate we had some pastries and coffee for breakfast. Ofelia was feeling quite sick at this point, and Andres and Gabriel got pulled aside for a random security check which really delayed their boarding. Thankfully however we all made it onboard fine and departed by around 6am happy to be returning home. 

I sat by the window and watched as we departed this beautiful country as it rained. I then watched the movie Fall Guy on the plane, starring Ryan Gosling, which was quite funny. We arrived to Miami by around 10am local time and once again had to go thru various immigration checkpoints. I remember being a little nervous about my coffee beans passing the foreign security check. This was not a problem however and we all got thru fine. For lunch we went to TGI Fridays and most of us ordered good ole fashioned hamburgers, while mom and Ofelia ordered some ribs. After lunch we parted ways with Gabriel, who was on a separate flight to Nashville. 

We had a good 3 hour layover until our flight left for Indianapolis. This included various gate switches, some photo uploads, and some snack and drink purchases. I bought a coffee and everyone a round of tasty guava pastries. Dad also later bought a round of pastries, and drinks for the plane ride. I remember sitting around the Miami airport, seeing more attractive Miami women then Colombian women. (I had expected to be blown away by the beautiful Colombian women as I was in Maracaibo, but that was not quite the case on this trip). Surprisingly the weather in Miami seemed quite fine despite the ongoing hurricane Milton nearby. We finally boarded our plane by around 3:30pm. 

The plane ride was one of the most empty rides I'd ever been on, which was nice and spacious for a change. I watched the movie Monkey Man, which was good but very violent. We arrived at around 6pm, and Andres was on the spot to get his key situation figured out. Unfortunately he was never able to find his car keys so he had to call in a locksmith to create a new key for him. I joined him on the shuttle ride to the parking lot airport, where the contractor was already waiting for us with the key. Although this cost him a lot of money, thankfully it resolved his problem, and got us all home okay. This essentially brought an end to our week long trip to Colombia. It was no doubt an adventure full of many ups-and-downs with challenges galore, but I think that made it to be one of the more memorable trips in a very long while. I was simply blown away by the beautiful landscape of this country and hope to visit it again several more times. 

Monday, June 20, 2022

Top 50 Dave Matthews Songs

In preparation for my upcoming Dave Matthews Band concert next weekend I've been diving deep into his music lately. I've been a huge fan of DMB, since my good friend Lauren got me hooked in college. He is one of my all time favorite musicians (right after the Beatles). There's really not a song of his I don't like and for this reason would like to give a well thought out top 50 list (just like I did for my Christmas Songs). I'm going to include music from the band, his solo albums, and live cover versions. 

I won't get too much into detail here about my love of DMB but perhaps might due that after next weekends concert. His music is a unique blend of darkness yet also an uplifting celebration of life. His lyrics are poetic, his voice is passionate, and his backed up by a unique array of musicians. The DMB sound is unlike any other music, quite worldly with it's infusion of keyboard, drums, bass, guitar, and the fiddle. I would consider his music a fusion of rock, jazz, folk, indie, jam, and even a bit of swamp rock. I really can't compare any other musician to his style and for that reason he stands as one of my favorites. So here is my well thought out list of my top 50 favorite DMB songs. 


Top 50 Favorite Dave Matthews Songs


50. Pantala Naga Pampa

    • Album: Before these Crowded Streets (1998)
    • Significance: It's one of DMB's shortest songs at only 41 seconds but has such a blissful melody. It's mostly instrumental but Dave does deliver an orgasmic line where he welcomes everyone to relax and set aside their troubles. I could see this song used as opening welcome to any live show. 
49. #41
    • Album: Crash
    • Notable Live Performances:
      • United Center 1998
      • Red Rocks 2005
      • Wrigley Field 2010
    • Significance: It is more of an instrumental song, carried by Leroy Moore's saxophone and some good percussion by Carter Beauford. However Dave does provide a lyrical message pertaining to a lover. He describes how perhaps he was a bit too shy around her, and wishes he could have a 2nd chance with her saying that he will be waiting for her. 
48. Dancing Nancies
    • Album: Under the Table Dreaming (1994)
    • Notable Live Performances:
      • Red Rocks 1995
      • Central Park 2003
      • Citi Field 2010
    • Significance: The song is one of the more popular playful songs by the band, where Dave is describing alternate realities. He also describes the ups and downs of life, and despite the dark clouds that often appear he will get thru it. It's a very playful song with great jam sessions, and Dave will often add his current location to the opening of the song at live performances.  
47. You Never Know
    • Album: Busted Stuff (2002)
    • Significance: It's an uplifting song about dreaming and hoping for the best. Rather than wasting away we should have a positive outlook of life and make the most of every moment. It's a catchy melody by Dave and the band.   
46. Dreamgirl
    • Album: Stand Up (2005)
    • Significance: It's probably one of the more main stream overplayed songs but I still like it. The song is fairly simple to comprehend about a person so deep in love it feels like he is in a dream. It's one of his many very romantic and sexual songs about love. It also has a very nice dreamlike melody to it. I can't help but remember the music video for this song with Julia Roberts. 
45. Angel
    • Album: Everyday (2001)
    • Significance: One of the bands more mainstream songs I think it has a nice slow rhythm and harmony to it. I think the song is about an up-and-down relationship and the mind games that often happen. Despite all this drama however, the person accepts that he needs her more than anything because she is his angel. 
 44. Crush
    • Album: Before These Crowded Streets (1998)
    • Significance: This is one of Dave's more popular overplayed songs but still has to make it on this list. It has a very soothing romantic quality to it, where just as the title suggests Dave is reflecting on a lover. It has a very summer quality to it, about dancing, drinking, sleeping all day, and driving all night. The song also has some great instrumental pieces throughout it. 
43. All Along the Watchtower
  • Cover Song by Bob Dylan/Jimi Hendrix(1968)
  • Notable Live Performances:
    • Central Park 2003
    • Piedmont Park 2007
    • Red Rocks 1995
    • Citi Field 2010
  • Significance: It is a great cover by the band of the iconic Bob Dylan/Jimi Hendrix song. It begins quite slow as Dave describes the confusion and lack of relief perhaps in reference to the Vietnam War. Half way into the song, Dave delivers a long sustained note about the hour being late. At this point the real jamming and rock and roll get going. The song is loaded with shouts and cries from Dave, ideal for an outdoor concert venue.    
42. Old Dirt HIll
    • Album: Stand Up (2005)
    • Significance: Dave explains at the Radio City Hall session that this song is about wanting to return to the nostalgia of being a young boy again. It has a catchy upbeat tune in which he explains his childhood and wishing he could return to it. 
41. Pay for What you Get
    • Album: Under the Table Dreaming (1994)
    • Significance: It is a slower song by DMB where he contemplates a lost lover. Everyone asks him how she's doing since she went away, and Dave says he doesn't know. At that he utters the main line "You Pay for what you get". I suppose this could be in reference to his lack of judgement or action in the relationship. It has such a nice melody to it. 
40. Granny
    • Album: Under the Table Dreaming (1994)
    • Live Performances: 
      • Central Park 2003
      • Gorge Amphitheatre 2002
    • Significance: It is a feel good song by the band pertaining to unconditional love. While the title mentions granny it really has nothing to do with a grandmother, yet rather about the love that keeps us going. It's an iconic fun song by the band with a very uplifting message.
39. Say Goodbye
    • Album: Crash
    • Notable Live Performances:
      • Red Rocks 2005
      • Comerica Park Detroit 2000
    • Significance: It's a very beautiful song with great instrumental arrangements by the flute and percussion. The song is about having a one time fling, maybe even an affair with someone, but then parting ways and saying goodbye. The lovers agree to make the most of the night and tomorrow they can go back to being friends. Another poetic song by Dave pertaining to living in the moment. 
38. Ants Marching
    • Album: Under the Table Dreaming
    • Notable Liver Performances:
      • Red Rocks 1995
      • Central Park 2003
      • Piedmont Park 2007
    • Significance: It is one of the band's more iconic songs with it's fiery fiddling from Boyd Tinsley. The song is a reference to humanity working and living everyday like little ants marching together. I think Dave is urging us to wake up from our daily chores and routines and celebrate life more. It's yet another fun and playful song performed by the full band arrangement.    
37. Grace is Gone
    • Album: Busted Stuff (2002)
    • Notable Live Performances:
      • Fenway Park 2006
      • Radio City Hall 2007
    • Significance: One of Dave's more melancholic songs he is reflecting on yet another heartbreak. He is talking to the bartender, asking for another drink to help take the emotional pain away. He hopes that in drinking it will wash away his misery and memories of his past love. It's a slow acoustic song, with great vocals from Dave. 
36. #34
    • Album: Under the Table Dreaming (1994)
    • Significance: The song is mostly instrumental carried by a very nice saxophone melody by LeRoy Moore. The lyrics come later in the song where Dave is just peacefully laying back with someone else and reflecting on a good day. Once again another very positive and soothing song about enjoying life.   
35. Gravedigger
      • Album: Some Devil (2003)
      • Significance: Another dark song by Dave pertaining to death and mortality. The message is quite simple to live life to the fullest because it can end at any moment. He gives various examples of people whose life ended too soon, and appeals to the gravedigger. 
34. So Right
    • Album: Everyday (2002)
    • Significance: A song that is fairly simple to comprehend about friendship and love. A love that makes you feel so alive you want to dance. It is one of Dave's many uplifting happy songs. It also has a catchy upbeat melody and ideal for the full band jam arrangement. 
33. Typical Situation
    • Album: Under the Table Dreaming (1994)
    • Significance: It's a slower reflective song, with great instrumental and vocals. The song is about society's standards and how everyone shares a common ideal of happiness. I think Dave is criticizing this conformist structure that lacks individuality. It has a unique style and was probably one of my earlier favorite songs of Dave. 
32. Jimi Thing
      • Album: Under the Table and Dreaming (1994)
      • Notable Live Performances:
        • Central Park 2003
        • Wrigley Field 2010
      • Significance: This is one of Dave's feel good songs about getting high and enjoying life. He explains his desire to float and chill thru the good days and the bad days. It's a fun song performed by the band and also opens up for some great jamming at the live performances. 
31. One Sweet World
    • Album: Remember Two Things (1993)
    • Notable Live Performances:
      • Central Park 2003
      • Fenway Park 2006
      • Piedmont Park 2007
      • Citi Field 2010
    • Significance: It is a great live song by Dave with it's opening intro. The song is a simple celebration of the beauty and happiness of life and the world we live on. However what really makes the song special is the full band arrangement that often opens up for some great jamming. It's a feel good summertime song. 
30. Big Eyed Fish
      • Album: Busted Stuff (2002)
      • Significance: This is a unique song by Dave with a message that the grass is not always greener on the other side. He gives various examples and stories about a fish wanting to live out of the sea, a man not wanting to breath, and a monkey wanting to escape from his tree. It's a rather simple yet quite melodic song and as per usual he finishes with some great sustained notes. 
29. Lie in Our Graves
    • Album: Crash
    • Notable Live Performances
      • Red Rocks 1995
      • Gorge Amphitheatre 2002
      • Radio City Hall 2007
    • Significance: It's yet another morbid song where Dave questions how we can lie in our graves thinking about lost opportunities. It is yet another example of the many Dave songs that encourage people to live a life to the fullest without any regrets. What's especially great about this song is the long jam session in the middle. The version with Tim Reynolds fast picking guitar work is quite sublime. 
28. Sister
    • Notable Performances: 
      • Radio City Hall 2007
    • Significance: This is obviously a song about his sister (not the one that was murdered but the younger one). Dave has explained before that when they were kids they joked about swapping hearts. The song explains how Dave and his sister can feel one another's emotions. It's a powerful connection and special song to his sister. It has a very soft and peaceful melody to it. 
27. When the World Ends
    • Album: Everyday (2001)
    • Notable Live Performances:
      • Central Park 2003
      • Folsom Field 2001
    • Significance: Another of Dave's morbid songs he is stating that he is not afraid of death since he has found love. He states he will be laying in bed with his lover, smoking a joint, and not to worry about a thing. It's a great vocal song with a very hopeful message and several references to getting high . This seems to be a common theme by Dave, not fearing his mortality but living every day to the fullest. 
26. Seek Up
    • Album: Remember Two Things (1993)
    • Notable Live Performances: 
      • Red Rocks 1995
      • Citi Field 2010
    • Significance: It's one of Dave's more somber songs that despite all the events and feelings we go thru we all will eventually die. We seek up emotions to distract us from this harsh reality. We also turn to material possessions to make us happy. It's no doubt a melancholic song, but still has such a powerful delivery. It's a great band arrangement and brings out some great sustained cries from Dave. 
25. Crash into Me
    • Album: Crash (1996)
    • Notable Live Performances:
      • Radio City Hall 2007
      • Citi Field 2010
      • Wrigley Field 2010
    • Significance: It is Dave's most popular song and played the most frequently but I still find it to be a very beautiful song. It refers to someone so madly in love that he feels like a kid again. Despite it's theme of feeling like a young innocent boy, the song is actually laced with some heavy sexuality. I think the term crash into me, is about the two having sex. Aside from it's romantic lyrics Dave also sings this one with great melody. 
24. Samurai Cop (Oh Joy Begin)
    • Album: Come Tomorrow (2018)
    • Significance: It's actually one of the newest songs of Dave that I enjoy. It has such a powerful melody welcoming joy. Dave annunciates every word in the song with such heartfelt passion. I think its about a new birth or perhaps a new happy chapter in one's life, maybe a marriage. Dave is also reminding us to never forget these new moments of heightened happiness. It's such a positive jubilant song. 
23. The Song that Jane Likes
    • Album: Remember Two Things (1993)
    • Significance: The song is named after Dave's younger sister Jane. It is a very upbeat happy song about playing and having a good time with friends. This song hit a special place for me when I saw it performed live in 2012. I remember having such an incredible time with my friends dancing and singing in the lawn while this song was playing. 
22. Stay or Leave
    • Album: Some Devil (2003)
    • Significance: It's a very deep and mysterious song on Dave's solo album where he is reflecting on a relationship that is at an end. He remembers the good times but also comes to terms that they must go their separate ways. The song demonstrates the perplexity of bringing an end to a powerful relationship. It has a very nice melody to it. 
21. Satellite
    • Album: Under the Table and Dreaming (1994)
    • Significance: The song has one of the most recognizable guitar rifts and is one of the more popular of the DMB songs. The meaning is quite vague and I've always taking it a song about an all watching eye in sky that sees everything. I think Dave is pointing out how we live in an age of technology, communication, weather forecasts, and no more privacy. I've also seen theories that the song is just a playful take on the some, "Twinkle Twinkle Little Star". Aside from it's abstract lyrics the song is very well done. 
20. Sweet Melissa
    • Cover of song by Allman Brothers (1972)
    • Performed by Dave and Greg Allman at the Piedmont Park concert 2007
    • Significance: The song is a beautiful melody written by the Allman Brothers with a folksy country rock style. Greg Allman opens with the first verse, but Dave comes in with a beautiful 2nd verse. As usual with Dave cover songs he stills the spotlight with his heartfelt voice. 
19. Dodo
    • Album: Some Devil (2003)
    • Significance: This is one of Dave's solo songs I really enjoy for it's tune and great vocals. Dave is once again in a perplexing and reflective state thinking about life in general. He gives several examples of what we think we know is often wrong. Such as the world being flat. I believe his final message is that we really don't know anything and that life is a total mystery. It's one of many engimatics song with a very nice melody. 
18. Stay (Wasting Time)
    • Album: Before these Crowded Streets (1998)
    • Notable Live Performances:
      • Central Park 2003
      • Piedmont Park 2007
      • Citi Field 2010
    • Significance: It's another staple for live shows, with it's upbeat celebratory rhythm. It's another song about love, not wanting to leave your partner because every moment is so enjoyable. The band usually gets into some good jamming and it's a fun summer song that just makes you want to cut loose. 
17. Grey Street
    • Album: Busted Stuff (2002)
    • Notable Live Performances:
      • Central Park 2003
      • Fenway Park 2006
      • Wrigley Field 2010
    • Significance: The song is about a woman dealing with depression and loneliness, looking for a way to get out of it. Everything to her is the color grey and it breaks her heart. Its another powerful song with Dave's driving deep voice and the full ensemble of the band. It's an ideal song for live performances carried by Leroy's saxophone. 
16. Don't Drink the Water
    • Album: Before these Crowded Streets (1998)
    • Notable Live Performances:
      • Folsom Field 2001
      • Central Park 2003
      • Piedmont Park 2007
    • Significance: It's a jamming powerful song with great sustained notes from Dave that echo throughout the concert venues. The line of there being blood in the water, is a reference to the violent purge of Native Americans. Aside from it's somber lyrics Dave drives this song with great passion and loud cries. The band often opens with this song as was the case for the Central Park concert in 2003. 
15. Digging a Ditch
    • Album: Busted Stuff (2002)
    • Notable Live Performances:
      • Folsom Field 2001
      • Madison Square Garden 2002
      • Wrigley Field 2010
    • Significance: It is one of Dave's slower songs with a very nice guitar rift to it. Dave is once again in a reflective state here enjoying his peaceful dreamlike thoughts. He explains how he can bury his worries and troubles away into this ditch. There's some theories that it might be a reference to getting high and just passing the time. It certainly has the mellow feel of someone in a peaceful trance. It is one of my early favorite songs of Dave. 
14. If Only
    • Album: Away from the World (2012)
    • Significance: I remember first hearing this song when I saw Dave live with my friends and it was one of my favorite songs of the show. Maybe it was the lighting or just good times with the friends but I found it to be jamming. The song is about lost love, a person reflecting on someone who got away. I think it has a very catchy melody and ideal for some great jamming.  
13. Cortez the Killer
    • Cover Song of Neil Young (1975)
    • Live Performance: Dave Matthews Band and Warren Haynes (2003)
    • Significance: This live cover version was performed at the Central Park concert in 2003, with the guest appearance from Warren Haynes. The song is about the Spanish conqueror Cortez and how he ruined the beautiful and peaceful life of the Incas. This performance has great vocals by Dave Matthews with incredible guitar jamming by Warren Hayes.
12. So Damn Lucky
    • Album: Some Devil (2003)
    • Significance: This is my favorite song from Dave's solo album "Some Devil". He explains it's meaning at the Radio City show with Tim Reynolds. It's about that flashing moment when you realize you are about to take on some pain, and then afterwards feel so grateful to still be alive. It's one of those songs where you count your blessings and give thanks for everything. Dave is poetically celebrating this rush of blood and how amazing it is to feel alive. 
11. Dreaming Tree
    • Album: Before These Crowded Streets (1998)
    • Significance: This is a beautiful yet another of Dave's more somber songs. The dreaming tree represents desire and happiness, and how we long to possess and grow this tree throughout our lives. But eventually the tree dies and we must move on. I think the song represents the harsh reality of life, in which we all must deal with hardships, loss, and grief. The song has great instrumental pieces, sustained echoes, and heavenly flutes towards it's close. 
10. Spoon
    • Album: Before These Crowded Streets (1998)
    • Significance: It is yet another peaceful, powerful, and very poetic songs. It has a great banjo arrangement and features Alanis Morrissette providing backup vocals and great harmony with Dave. The song is yet another Christian interpretation of Jesus reflecting on his death with his father while he's stirring his coffee. He asks God why he was hung out to dry for the sins of all humanity. He comes to terms with it all by laughing out loud. The closing outro of the song features a very uplifting response from God, welcoming his son from the cold and telling him everything will be alright. This is truly a powerful and inspirational song by Dave.   
9. Cry Freedom
    • Album: Crash (1996)
    • Notable Live Versions: Virginia Beach 2010
    • Significance: One of the many songs by Dave pertaining to race and discrimination. It is a reference to the apartheid of South Africa, but also pertains to the desired equality of all humanity. I think the lyrics are so poetic, and challenge us to not be naïve and ignorant. This is another great passionate melody by Dave. 
8. A Pirate Looks at Forty
    • Cover Song of Jimmy Buffet (1974)
    • Live Performance: Kouka Festival 2008
    • Significance: This is a covered song in which Dave Matthews and Tim Reynolds join Jack Johnson on stage(another favorite musician of mine). Jack Johnson has such an iconic mellow Hawaiian style, but it's Dave's singing that really takes the song to a whole new level. It's about a smuggling pirate who comes to terms with the fun and wild life he lived but as he approaches forty he has nothing or no one to show for it. Jack and Dave harmonize great in this song, and Dave's sustainment of the word "weed" is great stuff. 
7. The Stone
    • Album: Before These Crowded Streets (1998)
    • Notable Live Versions: 
      • Red Rocks (2005)
      • Citi Field (2010)
    • Significance: This is another of Dave's darker songs that finds an uplifting light towards the end. There is someone who has done something wrong and is struggling with his consciousness but seeks the support of someone else. I think the positive message here is to not walk thru life alone but to find support. Once again Dave closes with great sustained notes and heart felt deep cries, ideal for a large audience. It's a powerful song. 
6. Lover Lay Down
    • Album: Under the Dreaming Tree (1994)
    • Significance: It's perhaps one of Dave's most romantic songs, a true embodiment of summer love. It poetically details two lovers kissing and laying together with each other. It's a softer song but so melodic and song beautifully by Dave especially at it's close where they are chasing each other around in circles. 
5. Bartender
    • Album: Busted Stuff (2002)
    • Notable Live Versions: 
      • Folsom Field 2001
      • Red Rocks 2005
      • Fenway Park 2006
      • Radio City 2007
    • Significance: Another of many Christian spiritual songs by Dave, this is a reference to someone who is trying to find peace with God. He longs for a glass of wine that will set him free of all his sins. Aside from it's powerful lyrics it also has incredible sustained noted by Dave at the backend of the song. He truly displays an angelic quality towards the end with a mixture of passionate shouting yet melodic pleas. 
4. Two Step
    • Album: Crash (1996)
    • Notable Live Versions
      • Central Park 2003
      • Piedmont Park 2007
      • Red Rocks 1995
    • Significance: Another one of the heavy rocking songs by the band and a must for the live shows. The songs is about two lovers coming together to celebrate life despite it being short. The reference of two step may be to Noah's Ark, where the animals climb onboard two by two. This could refer to the short life of the lovers, but the hopeful future of life. I think the song is a very joyful one and puts great hope in the sweetness of life as well as it's future.  
3. Warehouse
    • Album: Under the Table Dreaming (1994)
    • Notable Live Versions:
      • Central Park 2003
      • Red Rocks Amphitheatre 1995
    • Significance: This is usually a must for every DMB live concert and is probably one of their most rocking songs. The buildup is quite incredible with it's powerful strings provided by Boyd Tinsley. The lyrics are quite dark however as it is a reference of someone slipping away from life and into death. The warehouse represents the person's life perhaps mundane and overworked. Dave is explaining how death might not be so bad, but later comes to realize the warehouse isn't so bad after all. While it's a morbid topic, its a very fun and celebratory song. 
2. Proudest Monkey
    • Album: Crash (1996)
    • Notable Live Versions: 
      • Red Rocks 1995
      • Gorge Amphitheatre 2002
      • Citi Field 2010
    • Significance: Another great live song by DMB, it tells the story of a monkey who decides to escape from his jungle and take on the big city. He later realizes that the big city isn't all it's made out to be, and that his life was quite good in the jungle. This is a reference to enjoying the more simple things in life. The song has a building melody with great sustained notes from Dave. I find it to be a very fun and happy song with a great saxophone segment by Leroy. 
1. The Maker
    • Cover Song written by Daniel Lanois (1989)
    • Notable Live Versions:
      • United Center Chicago: Dec 1998
      • Radio City Music Hall: April 2007
    • Significance: It has a very powerful spiritual theme to it, where the singer is searching for the divine creator. It is no doubt a reference to Christianity as it mentions John Baptist, the fields of Abraham, and the lands east of Eden. I believe it to be a song of praise and finding peace with the afterlife. Dave performs it on various live occasions with such beautiful passion.