Top 50 Dave Matthews Songs

In preparation for my upcoming Dave Matthews Band concert next weekend I've been diving deep into his music lately. I've been a huge fan of DMB, since my good friend Lauren got me hooked in college. He is one of my all time favorite musicians (right after the Beatles). There's really not a song of his I don't like and for this reason would like to give a well thought out top 50 list (just like I did for my Christmas Songs). I'm going to include music from the band, his solo albums, and live cover versions. 

I won't get too much into detail here about my love of DMB but perhaps might due that after next weekends concert. His music is a unique blend of darkness yet also an uplifting celebration of life. His lyrics are poetic, his voice is passionate, and his backed up by a unique array of musicians. The DMB sound is unlike any other music, quite worldly with it's infusion of keyboard, drums, bass, guitar, and the fiddle. I would consider his music a fusion of rock, jazz, folk, indie, jam, and even a bit of swamp rock. I really can't compare any other musician to his style and for that reason he stands as one of my favorites. So here is my well thought out list of my top 50 favorite DMB songs. 

Top 50 Favorite Dave Matthews Songs

50. Pantala Naga Pampa

• Album: Before these Crowded Streets (1998)
• Significance: It's one of DMB's shortest songs at only 41 seconds but has such a blissful melody. It's mostly instrumental but Dave does deliver an orgasmic line where he welcomes everyone to relax and set aside their troubles. I could see this song used as opening welcome to any live show. 

49. #41

• 
  Album: Crash
  
• Notable Live Performances:
• United Center 1998
• Red Rocks 2005
• Wrigley Field 2010
• Significance: It is more of an instrumental song, carried by Leroy Moore's saxophone and some good percussion by Carter Beauford. However Dave does provide a lyrical message pertaining to a lover. He describes how perhaps he was a bit too shy around her, and wishes he could have a 2nd chance with her saying that he will be waiting for her. 

48. Dancing Nancies

• Album: Under the Table Dreaming (1994)
• Notable Live Performances:
• Red Rocks 1995
• Central Park 2003
• Citi Field 2010
• Significance: The song is one of the more popular playful songs by the band, where Dave is describing alternate realities. He also describes the ups and downs of life, and despite the dark clouds that often appear he will get thru it. It's a very playful song with great jam sessions, and Dave will often add his current location to the opening of the song at live performances.  

47. You Never Know

• Album: Busted Stuff (2002)
• Significance: It's an uplifting song about dreaming and hoping for the best. Rather than wasting away we should have a positive outlook of life and make the most of every moment. It's a catchy melody by Dave and the band.   

46. Dreamgirl

• Album: Stand Up (2005)
• Significance: It's probably one of the more main stream overplayed songs but I still like it. The song is fairly simple to comprehend about a person so deep in love it feels like he is in a dream. It's one of his many very romantic and sexual songs about love. It also has a very nice dreamlike melody to it. I can't help but remember the music video for this song with Julia Roberts. 

45. Angel

• Album: Everyday (2001)
  
• Significance: One of the bands more mainstream songs I think it has a nice slow rhythm and harmony to it. I think the song is about an up-and-down relationship and the mind games that often happen. Despite all this drama however, the person accepts that he needs her more than anything because she is his angel. 

 44. Crush

• Album: Before These Crowded Streets (1998)
• Significance: This is one of Dave's more popular overplayed songs but still has to make it on this list. It has a very soothing romantic quality to it, where just as the title suggests Dave is reflecting on a lover. It has a very summer quality to it, about dancing, drinking, sleeping all day, and driving all night. The song also has some great instrumental pieces throughout it. 

43. All Along the Watchtower

• Cover Song by Bob Dylan/Jimi Hendrix(1968)
• Notable Live Performances:
• Central Park 2003
• Piedmont Park 2007
• Red Rocks 1995
• Citi Field 2010
• Significance: It is a great cover by the band of the iconic Bob Dylan/Jimi Hendrix song. It begins quite slow as Dave describes the confusion and lack of relief perhaps in reference to the Vietnam War. Half way into the song, Dave delivers a long sustained note about the hour being late. At this point the real jamming and rock and roll get going. The song is loaded with shouts and cries from Dave, ideal for an outdoor concert venue.    

42. Old Dirt HIll

• Album: Stand Up (2005)
• Significance: Dave explains at the Radio City Hall session that this song is about wanting to return to the nostalgia of being a young boy again. It has a catchy upbeat tune in which he explains his childhood and wishing he could return to it. 

41. Pay for What you Get

• Album: Under the Table Dreaming (1994)
• Significance: It is a slower song by DMB where he contemplates a lost lover. Everyone asks him how she's doing since she went away, and Dave says he doesn't know. At that he utters the main line "You Pay for what you get". I suppose this could be in reference to his lack of judgement or action in the relationship. It has such a nice melody to it. 

40. Granny

• 
  Album: Under the Table Dreaming (1994)
• Live Performances: 
• Central Park 2003
• Gorge Amphitheatre 2002
• Significance: It is a feel good song by the band pertaining to unconditional love. While the title mentions granny it really has nothing to do with a grandmother, yet rather about the love that keeps us going. It's an iconic fun song by the band with a very uplifting message.

39. Say Goodbye

• Album: Crash
• Notable Live Performances:
• Red Rocks 2005
• Comerica Park Detroit 2000
• Significance: It's a very beautiful song with great instrumental arrangements by the flute and percussion. The song is about having a one time fling, maybe even an affair with someone, but then parting ways and saying goodbye. The lovers agree to make the most of the night and tomorrow they can go back to being friends. Another poetic song by Dave pertaining to living in the moment. 

38. Ants Marching

• Album: Under the Table Dreaming
• Notable Liver Performances:
• Red Rocks 1995
• Central Park 2003
• Piedmont Park 2007
• Significance: It is one of the band's more iconic songs with it's fiery fiddling from Boyd Tinsley. The song is a reference to humanity working and living everyday like little ants marching together. I think Dave is urging us to wake up from our daily chores and routines and celebrate life more. It's yet another fun and playful song performed by the full band arrangement.    

37. Grace is Gone

• 
  Album: Busted Stuff (2002)
• Notable Live Performances:
• Fenway Park 2006
• Radio City Hall 2007
• Significance: One of Dave's more melancholic songs he is reflecting on yet another heartbreak. He is talking to the bartender, asking for another drink to help take the emotional pain away. He hopes that in drinking it will wash away his misery and memories of his past love. It's a slow acoustic song, with great vocals from Dave. 

36. #34

• Album: Under the Table Dreaming (1994)
• Significance: The song is mostly instrumental carried by a very nice saxophone melody by LeRoy Moore. The lyrics come later in the song where Dave is just peacefully laying back with someone else and reflecting on a good day. Once again another very positive and soothing song about enjoying life.   

35. Gravedigger

• Album: Some Devil (2003)
• Significance: Another dark song by Dave pertaining to death and mortality. The message is quite simple to live life to the fullest because it can end at any moment. He gives various examples of people whose life ended too soon, and appeals to the gravedigger. 

34. So Right

• Album: Everyday (2002)
• Significance: A song that is fairly simple to comprehend about friendship and love. A love that makes you feel so alive you want to dance. It is one of Dave's many uplifting happy songs. It also has a catchy upbeat melody and ideal for the full band jam arrangement. 

33. Typical Situation

• Album: Under the Table Dreaming (1994)
• Significance: It's a slower reflective song, with great instrumental and vocals. The song is about society's standards and how everyone shares a common ideal of happiness. I think Dave is criticizing this conformist structure that lacks individuality. It has a unique style and was probably one of my earlier favorite songs of Dave. 

32. Jimi Thing

• 
  Album: Under the Table and Dreaming (1994)
• Notable Live Performances:
• Central Park 2003
• Wrigley Field 2010
• Significance: This is one of Dave's feel good songs about getting high and enjoying life. He explains his desire to float and chill thru the good days and the bad days. It's a fun song performed by the band and also opens up for some great jamming at the live performances. 

31. One Sweet World

• Album: Remember Two Things (1993)
• Notable Live Performances:
• Central Park 2003
• Fenway Park 2006
• Piedmont Park 2007
• Citi Field 2010
• Significance: It is a great live song by Dave with it's opening intro. The song is a simple celebration of the beauty and happiness of life and the world we live on. However what really makes the song special is the full band arrangement that often opens up for some great jamming. It's a feel good summertime song. 

30. Big Eyed Fish

• Album: Busted Stuff (2002)
• Significance: This is a unique song by Dave with a message that the grass is not always greener on the other side. He gives various examples and stories about a fish wanting to live out of the sea, a man not wanting to breath, and a monkey wanting to escape from his tree. It's a rather simple yet quite melodic song and as per usual he finishes with some great sustained notes. 

29. Lie in Our Graves

• Album: Crash
• Notable Live Performances
• Red Rocks 1995
• Gorge Amphitheatre 2002
• Radio City Hall 2007
• Significance: It's yet another morbid song where Dave questions how we can lie in our graves thinking about lost opportunities. It is yet another example of the many Dave songs that encourage people to live a life to the fullest without any regrets. What's especially great about this song is the long jam session in the middle. The version with Tim Reynolds fast picking guitar work is quite sublime. 

28. Sister

• Notable Performances: 
• 
  Radio City Hall 2007
• Significance: This is obviously a song about his sister (not the one that was murdered but the younger one). Dave has explained before that when they were kids they joked about swapping hearts. The song explains how Dave and his sister can feel one another's emotions. It's a powerful connection and special song to his sister. It has a very soft and peaceful melody to it. 

27. When the World Ends

• Album: Everyday (2001)
• Notable Live Performances:
• Central Park 2003
• Folsom Field 2001
• Significance: Another of Dave's morbid songs he is stating that he is not afraid of death since he has found love. He states he will be laying in bed with his lover, smoking a joint, and not to worry about a thing. It's a great vocal song with a very hopeful message and several references to getting high . This seems to be a common theme by Dave, not fearing his mortality but living every day to the fullest. 

26. Seek Up

• Album: Remember Two Things (1993)
• Notable Live Performances: 
• Red Rocks 1995
• Citi Field 2010
• Significance: It's one of Dave's more somber songs that despite all the events and feelings we go thru we all will eventually die. We seek up emotions to distract us from this harsh reality. We also turn to material possessions to make us happy. It's no doubt a melancholic song, but still has such a powerful delivery. It's a great band arrangement and brings out some great sustained cries from Dave. 

25. Crash into Me

• Album: Crash (1996)
• Notable Live Performances:
• Radio City Hall 2007
• Citi Field 2010
• Wrigley Field 2010
• Significance: It is Dave's most popular song and played the most frequently but I still find it to be a very beautiful song. It refers to someone so madly in love that he feels like a kid again. Despite it's theme of feeling like a young innocent boy, the song is actually laced with some heavy sexuality. I think the term crash into me, is about the two having sex. Aside from it's romantic lyrics Dave also sings this one with great melody. 

24. Samurai Cop (Oh Joy Begin)

• Album: Come Tomorrow (2018)
• 
  Significance: It's actually one of the newest songs of Dave that I enjoy. It has such a powerful melody welcoming joy. Dave annunciates every word in the song with such heartfelt passion. I think its about a new birth or perhaps a new happy chapter in one's life, maybe a marriage. Dave is also reminding us to never forget these new moments of heightened happiness. It's such a positive jubilant song. 

23. The Song that Jane Likes

• Album: Remember Two Things (1993)
• Significance: The song is named after Dave's younger sister Jane. It is a very upbeat happy song about playing and having a good time with friends. This song hit a special place for me when I saw it performed live in 2012. I remember having such an incredible time with my friends dancing and singing in the lawn while this song was playing. 

22. Stay or Leave

• Album: Some Devil (2003)
• Significance: It's a very deep and mysterious song on Dave's solo album where he is reflecting on a relationship that is at an end. He remembers the good times but also comes to terms that they must go their separate ways. The song demonstrates the perplexity of bringing an end to a powerful relationship. It has a very nice melody to it. 

21. Satellite

• Album: Under the Table and Dreaming (1994)
• 
  Significance: The song has one of the most recognizable guitar rifts and is one of the more popular of the DMB songs. The meaning is quite vague and I've always taking it a song about an all watching eye in sky that sees everything. I think Dave is pointing out how we live in an age of technology, communication, weather forecasts, and no more privacy. I've also seen theories that the song is just a playful take on the some, "Twinkle Twinkle Little Star". Aside from it's abstract lyrics the song is very well done. 

20. Sweet Melissa

• Cover of song by Allman Brothers (1972)
• Performed by Dave and Greg Allman at the Piedmont Park concert 2007
• Significance: The song is a beautiful melody written by the Allman Brothers with a folksy country rock style. Greg Allman opens with the first verse, but Dave comes in with a beautiful 2nd verse. As usual with Dave cover songs he stills the spotlight with his heartfelt voice. 

19. Dodo

• Album: Some Devil (2003)
• Significance: This is one of Dave's solo songs I really enjoy for it's tune and great vocals. Dave is once again in a perplexing and reflective state thinking about life in general. He gives several examples of what we think we know is often wrong. Such as the world being flat. I believe his final message is that we really don't know anything and that life is a total mystery. It's one of many engimatics song with a very nice melody. 

18. Stay (Wasting Time)

• Album: Before these Crowded Streets (1998)
• Notable Live Performances:
• Central Park 2003
• Piedmont Park 2007
• Citi Field 2010
• Significance: It's another staple for live shows, with it's upbeat celebratory rhythm. It's another song about love, not wanting to leave your partner because every moment is so enjoyable. The band usually gets into some good jamming and it's a fun summer song that just makes you want to cut loose. 

17. Grey Street

• 
  Album: Busted Stuff (2002)
• Notable Live Performances:
• Central Park 2003
• Fenway Park 2006
• Wrigley Field 2010
• Significance: The song is about a woman dealing with depression and loneliness, looking for a way to get out of it. Everything to her is the color grey and it breaks her heart. Its another powerful song with Dave's driving deep voice and the full ensemble of the band. It's an ideal song for live performances carried by Leroy's saxophone. 

16. Don't Drink the Water

• Album: Before these Crowded Streets (1998)
• Notable Live Performances:
• Folsom Field 2001
• Central Park 2003
• Piedmont Park 2007
• Significance: It's a jamming powerful song with great sustained notes from Dave that echo throughout the concert venues. The line of there being blood in the water, is a reference to the violent purge of Native Americans. Aside from it's somber lyrics Dave drives this song with great passion and loud cries. The band often opens with this song as was the case for the Central Park concert in 2003. 

15. Digging a Ditch

• Album: Busted Stuff (2002)
• Notable Live Performances:
• Folsom Field 2001
• Madison Square Garden 2002
• Wrigley Field 2010
• Significance: It is one of Dave's slower songs with a very nice guitar rift to it. Dave is once again in a reflective state here enjoying his peaceful dreamlike thoughts. He explains how he can bury his worries and troubles away into this ditch. There's some theories that it might be a reference to getting high and just passing the time. It certainly has the mellow feel of someone in a peaceful trance. It is one of my early favorite songs of Dave. 

14. If Only

• Album: Away from the World (2012)
• Significance: I remember first hearing this song when I saw Dave live with my friends and it was one of my favorite songs of the show. Maybe it was the lighting or just good times with the friends but I found it to be jamming. The song is about lost love, a person reflecting on someone who got away. I think it has a very catchy melody and ideal for some great jamming.  

13. Cortez the Killer

• 
  Cover Song of Neil Young (1975)
• Live Performance: Dave Matthews Band and Warren Haynes (2003)
• Significance: This live cover version was performed at the Central Park concert in 2003, with the guest appearance from Warren Haynes. The song is about the Spanish conqueror Cortez and how he ruined the beautiful and peaceful life of the Incas. This performance has great vocals by Dave Matthews with incredible guitar jamming by Warren Hayes.

12. So Damn Lucky

• Album: Some Devil (2003)
• Significance: This is my favorite song from Dave's solo album "Some Devil". He explains it's meaning at the Radio City show with Tim Reynolds. It's about that flashing moment when you realize you are about to take on some pain, and then afterwards feel so grateful to still be alive. It's one of those songs where you count your blessings and give thanks for everything. Dave is poetically celebrating this rush of blood and how amazing it is to feel alive. 

11. Dreaming Tree

• Album: Before These Crowded Streets (1998)
• Significance: This is a beautiful yet another of Dave's more somber songs. The dreaming tree represents desire and happiness, and how we long to possess and grow this tree throughout our lives. But eventually the tree dies and we must move on. I think the song represents the harsh reality of life, in which we all must deal with hardships, loss, and grief. The song has great instrumental pieces, sustained echoes, and heavenly flutes towards it's close. 

10. Spoon

• Album: Before These Crowded Streets (1998)
• Significance: It is yet another peaceful, powerful, and very poetic songs. It has a great banjo arrangement and features Alanis Morrissette providing backup vocals and great harmony with Dave. The song is yet another Christian interpretation of Jesus reflecting on his death with his father while he's stirring his coffee. He asks God why he was hung out to dry for the sins of all humanity. He comes to terms with it all by laughing out loud. The closing outro of the song features a very uplifting response from God, welcoming his son from the cold and telling him everything will be alright. This is truly a powerful and inspirational song by Dave.   

9. Cry Freedom

• Album: Crash (1996)
• Notable Live Versions: Virginia Beach 2010
• Significance: One of the many songs by Dave pertaining to race and discrimination. It is a reference to the apartheid of South Africa, but also pertains to the desired equality of all humanity. I think the lyrics are so poetic, and challenge us to not be naïve and ignorant. This is another great passionate melody by Dave. 

8. A Pirate Looks at Forty

• Cover Song of Jimmy Buffet (1974)
• Live Performance: Kouka Festival 2008
• Significance: This is a covered song in which Dave Matthews and Tim Reynolds join Jack Johnson on stage(another favorite musician of mine). Jack Johnson has such an iconic mellow Hawaiian style, but it's Dave's singing that really takes the song to a whole new level. It's about a smuggling pirate who comes to terms with the fun and wild life he lived but as he approaches forty he has nothing or no one to show for it. Jack and Dave harmonize great in this song, and Dave's sustainment of the word "weed" is great stuff. 

7. The Stone

• 
  Album: Before These Crowded Streets (1998)
• Notable Live Versions: 
• Red Rocks (2005)
• Citi Field (2010)
• Significance: This is another of Dave's darker songs that finds an uplifting light towards the end. There is someone who has done something wrong and is struggling with his consciousness but seeks the support of someone else. I think the positive message here is to not walk thru life alone but to find support. Once again Dave closes with great sustained notes and heart felt deep cries, ideal for a large audience. It's a powerful song. 

6. Lover Lay Down

• Album: Under the Dreaming Tree (1994)
• Significance: It's perhaps one of Dave's most romantic songs, a true embodiment of summer love. It poetically details two lovers kissing and laying together with each other. It's a softer song but so melodic and song beautifully by Dave especially at it's close where they are chasing each other around in circles. 

5. Bartender

• Album: Busted Stuff (2002)
• Notable Live Versions: 
• Folsom Field 2001
• Red Rocks 2005
• Fenway Park 2006
• Radio City 2007
• Significance: Another of many Christian spiritual songs by Dave, this is a reference to someone who is trying to find peace with God. He longs for a glass of wine that will set him free of all his sins. Aside from it's powerful lyrics it also has incredible sustained noted by Dave at the backend of the song. He truly displays an angelic quality towards the end with a mixture of passionate shouting yet melodic pleas. 

4. Two Step

• Album: Crash (1996)
• Notable Live Versions
• Central Park 2003
• Piedmont Park 2007
• Red Rocks 1995
• Significance: Another one of the heavy rocking songs by the band and a must for the live shows. The songs is about two lovers coming together to celebrate life despite it being short. The reference of two step may be to Noah's Ark, where the animals climb onboard two by two. This could refer to the short life of the lovers, but the hopeful future of life. I think the song is a very joyful one and puts great hope in the sweetness of life as well as it's future.  

3. Warehouse

• Album: Under the Table Dreaming (1994)
• Notable Live Versions:
• Central Park 2003
• Red Rocks Amphitheatre 1995
• Significance: This is usually a must for every DMB live concert and is probably one of their most rocking songs. The buildup is quite incredible with it's powerful strings provided by Boyd Tinsley. The lyrics are quite dark however as it is a reference of someone slipping away from life and into death. The warehouse represents the person's life perhaps mundane and overworked. Dave is explaining how death might not be so bad, but later comes to realize the warehouse isn't so bad after all. While it's a morbid topic, its a very fun and celebratory song. 

2. Proudest Monkey

• Album: Crash (1996)
• Notable Live Versions: 
• Red Rocks 1995
• Gorge Amphitheatre 2002
• Citi Field 2010
• Significance: Another great live song by DMB, it tells the story of a monkey who decides to escape from his jungle and take on the big city. He later realizes that the big city isn't all it's made out to be, and that his life was quite good in the jungle. This is a reference to enjoying the more simple things in life. The song has a building melody with great sustained notes from Dave. I find it to be a very fun and happy song with a great saxophone segment by Leroy. 

1. The Maker

• Cover Song written by Daniel Lanois (1989)
• Notable Live Versions:
• United Center Chicago: Dec 1998
• Radio City Music Hall: April 2007
• Significance: It has a very powerful spiritual theme to it, where the singer is searching for the divine creator. It is no doubt a reference to Christianity as it mentions John Baptist, the fields of Abraham, and the lands east of Eden. I believe it to be a song of praise and finding peace with the afterlife. Dave performs it on various live occasions with such beautiful passion.   

Study of Czech Culture

It's been a couple weeks now since my memorable Euro Trip and I want to make one more post, regarding Czech Culture. I actually got to experience four days in the Czech Republic, in two different cities (Brno and Prague). As I previously wrote, the city of Prague is one of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen right there with Paris or Rome. The architecture is truly sublime with it's castles, churches, bridges, and spires it is liking walking into a time machine into the medieval age. In this post however I'll try to advert away from the city and rather give a larger perspective of the Czech culture. 

From my perspective it was a very different feel stepping into Central Europe for the first time. My first experience in Vienna was exactly what I expected, a city overrun with beautiful architecture and tourists. However taking the train to Brno was quite unique, like stepping into an entirely different world. A world of the former Soviet Union, in a territory that was once overrun by communism. The train station was quite dirty and poorly managed. It reminded me of the chaos I briefly experienced in Nicaragua. I was glad to have left the train station but even walking thru the streets was quite different then most European cities. It was more authentic and less tourism, with locals drinking in the streets. The architecture was also quite impressive in Brno I must say. 

It was that night I quickly understood how Czech was regarded as the world's number one nation of beer consumption. Everyone was drinking, the beer was extremely cheap, and the glass mugs were quite abundant. I think that night I began to feel a new sense of awe with this Czech culture that embraced beautiful architecture and having fun times. The next day I was even more amazed by the city of Prague. This time it was overrun by tourists, as the European cities I've seen before, but that did not take away from it's beauty. Walking thru Old Town was one of the most surreal couple twos I have experienced, and I truly felt something quite new in this country. 

It's fair to say that Czech culture is perhaps not as worldly renown as many other cultures. They've never really been a political power, won the world cup, or have any recognizable cuisine. Part of this is because the nation is still rather young, having first established its sovereignty as Czechoslovakia in 1918. Before this the nation was known as the region of Bohemia and answered to the Holy Roman Empire. From the 1600s the region came under the influence of the Austrian Empire, up until it's dissolution after WWI. However even after establishing it's independence the Czech nation didn't have much time to establish as it was once again influenced by Nazi Germany and the Communist Russia. It was not until the 1990s with the fall of the Soviet Union and the split of Czech and Slovakia that this new Czech Republic was established.

I'm going to bypass the history of Bohemia having already written about the history of Austria and Prague. Instead in this post I want to focus on the Czech identity, which although is still new it pertains to a territory that has been inhabited for thousands of years. When I think Czech I first think of their best soccer player Pavel Nedved. But then I think of their great classical musicians Bedriech Smetana and Anton Dvorak. I also think vampires for some reason (perhaps this is more Transylvania but still close). But there can be no question that the ultimate gem of Czech pride has to be the city of Prague which is a true testament to time. 

Czech Architecture

I already wrote quite a lot about the architecture of the city of Prague, but it must appear in this overall study of it's culture. The country's architecture is what makes it so very unique from other nations. It has a very mysterious allure to it, much ado to it's gothic style of buildings. This includes the Prague Castle, the Tyn Church, the St. Vitus Cathedral, the Charles Bridge, and many other towers and buildings in the city. Even the city of Brno had various cathedrals of Gothic structure. The country is also renown for having the most castles in the world, a mesmerizing region with hundreds of spires. 

Czech Religion

One thing I came to understand in my studies of Prague, was that the region was a center place for the birth of the Counter Reformation. The theologian, Jan Hus began one of the earlier reformation movements against the Catholic Church during the early 1400s. He was later killed as a heretic but inspired an entire Bohemian Reformation movement led by his impassioned Hussite followers. One could make the case that Martin Luther was later inspired by these events that shaped Germany and swept across all of Europe. The conflict of Protestant vs Catholics was fierce in Prague, and the Thirty Years War was initiated by a mob murder (The Defenestration of Prague 1618).

Sadly despite it's numerous Catholic cathedrals, Czech is not the religious nation it once was. Quite surprising however is that they have various saints such as Ludmila of Bohemia and Wenceslaus Duke of Bohemia. This is the same Wenceslaus who is referred to in one of my all time favorite Christmas Songs, "Good King Wenceslaus". Although he was not a king of Bohemia, he reigned as Duke from 921 to 935 AD and through his righteousness he posthumously acquired the reputation as a king. He was rich in faith and gave to the poor, so much so that he would endure pain for the sake of others (as implied in the song). 

Czech Music

Two of the most significant Czech composers of the classical era are Bedrich Smetana and Anton Dvorak. I think I first heard the classical piece of Ma Vlast in the film Tree of Life and was so moved by the unique piece of music. This masterwork by Smetana is so enigmatic with it's building melody that flows like the Vltava river that inspired him. The title Ma Vlast means "My Fatherland" which is a celebration of Czech legacy and culture (on par with Wagner's mythological celebration of Germany). It is is one of my all time favorite classical works and for that reason alone is worth giving great praise to Smetana. He lived from 1824-1884 mostly in Prague and was a passionate about the cause of Czech nationalism which began with the Prague Uprising of 1848. 

Its fair to say Smetana influenced the other great Czech composer Anton Dvorak whose work began to emerge in Prague during the 1870s. Dvorak's music was different from Smetana's in that it incorporated more folk traditional elements of the Bohemian countryside. His greatest work was the Humoresques which he actually wrote during a visit in the United States in 1894. The third great Czech musician worth mentioning here was Leos Janacek who was influenced by Dvorak. He emerged in the early 1900s, and incorporated folk themes as well as eastern Slavic music into his musical compositions. 

Czech Sports

As I mentioned above the first Czech athlete that comes to mind is Pavel Nedved, who captained the Czech soccer team in the 2006 World Cup. Other great Czech soccer stars are Petr Cech (with his iconic goalkeeping helmet) and Tomas Rosicky who played for Arsenal for 10 years. Although Czech Republic has hardly been a powerhouse in recent tournaments they were runner-ups twice in the 1934 and 1962 World Cup. They made it to the Quarter Finals in the last Euro Cup 2020 where Patrick Shick emerged as their new promising superstar.

The most popular sport in Czech Republic is not soccer but rather ice hockey. The team has collected a gold medal at the 1998 Winter Olympics and many other championships in the international hockey tournaments. The also have a very successful tennis tradition with superstars such as Martina Navratilova (winner of 18 grand slam titles), Ivan Lendl (winner of 8 titles), and the more recent female stars Petra Kvitova (two-time grand slam champion), Karolina Pliskova (two time grand slam finalist), and Barboa Krejcikova (champion of the 2021 French Open). 

Czech Cuisine

As I mentioned before, Czech is the leading nation in the world of beer consumed per capita. I would have thought this title would have belonged to Germany or Ireland, but it belongs to Czech Republic by a significant margin. The most popular beer in Czech is the pilsner (pale lager) and the brand Pilsner Urquell. 

While there I enjoyed two very tasty meals of ribs and the Bohemian country platter which included duck, pork roast, sausage, and sauerkraut. Another popular dish in Czech is the Svickova, which is steak with vegetables and heavy cream. Goulash stews are also common as they are in most of central Europe. Pastries are popular deserts in Czech and the strudel is the most common served in most coffeehouses. 

Movies set in Czech Republic

• 
  Anthropoid (2016): This is a great historical film pertaining to Czech nationalism. It is the true story about Operation Anthropoid, where two Czech rebel fighters during WWII  assassinated Hitler's right hand man Reinhard Heydrich in 1942. These two Czech fighters Jozef Gabcik and Jan Kubis are able to infilitrate their occupied nation and assassinate the Nazi commander. The response by Hitler was a cruel one in which 5000 Czech citizens were massacred. It remained however the most significant Nazi assassination and a proud national moment for the Czech Republic. 
  

• Mission Impossible (1996): The opening scene of the movie takes place at night in Prague. It is here that the villain played by Jon Voight has Tom Cruise's team assassinated. Jon Voight then stages a plunge off the Charles Bridge and into the Vltava River. The movie then goes all over the place, but this opening scene in Prague establishes the plot. 

• Casino Royal (2006): Just like with Mission Impossible, the opening scene of Casino Royal also takes place at an embassy in Prague. The new James Bond played by Daniel Craig assassinates a British traitor and then begins a hunt all across Europe. There aren't really any major exterior shots of Prague in this film, but it's one of my favorite actions films worth mentioning here. 

• Kafka (1991) It is a semi auto-biography of the famed Bohemian author Franz Kafka who is famous for writing The Metamorphosis, The Castle, and the Trial. The film establishes a unique setting relating to Kafka's bizarre writings. Directed by Steven Soderbergh and starring Jeremy Irons, the film was a bit of a disappointment however has now become a cult film. Most of the movie is shot in Prague with many of it's iconic building structures.

• Underworld (2003): The popular vampire series starring the beautiful Kate Beckinsale takes place all across central Europe including Budapest and Prague. Many of the car chases and fights were filmed in Prague. Although I was not a big fan of the gothic movie, I am a fan of Beckinsale. 

Urban Study: Prague

A week after my Euro Trip I am still left with lingering memories of the adventurous week that it was. Perhaps the most inspirational of the places I visited were Preikestolen, Norway and the beautiful city of Prague. I had always heard great things about the city of Prague, but really wasn't sure what to expect. Most of my cultural insight is derived from movies, and quite frankly I can't think of any big movies set in Prague. Before my visit the most iconic sights of Prague I could think of were the astronomical clock and the Tyn Church. Little did I expect it would be so much more than those two landmarks. It is a city on par with Paris or Rome in majestically quality and truly has it's own unique and mysterious allure. 

We spent two full days in the city, Saturday and Sunday (and I even made a Monday morning walk into Old Town before we left for the airport). The city was of course bustling with tourism both days and rightfully so. From the get-go as we walked into the district of Old Town it was like entering a whole different time period. Cars were removed from the equation and it was nothing but pedestrian traffic walking along cobblestone roads. The streets were aligned with restaurants, cafes, and stores catering to the tourists. And all around us was beautiful architecture, with countless spires shooting into the skies. 

The Gothic Powder Tower serves as the gates into the Old Town. From there it is not long to enter The Old Town Square which reminded me of the Brussels Grand Plaza. It has a large open plaza overlooked by the iconic Tyn Church. This Gothic cathedral is the Eiffel Tower of the city, towering over everything. It's spires are quite unique in that there are off-shoots of spires from the two main spires. The church is also unique in that it is nestled around buildings rather than it's own lot. This example of Gothic architecture is the norm in Prague, which has to be one of the most Gothic cities in the world. I think for this reason alone the city has somewhat of a dark and mysterious appeal to it. Like something out of a fantasy or vampire movie. 

However the Old Town Square was only the beginning. Just around the corner is the astronomical clock, one of the oldest of it's kind. It is a very complex yet aesthetically pleasing display of mechanics. Surrounded by demons and mythology it is another example of Prague's more gothic allure. From here it is not too long to walk to the Charles Bridge with it's iconic tower, streetlights, and sculptures. This is the most mesmerizing view of Prague to see the beautiful Vltava River and the Prague Castle perched on a hill in the distance. It is here that you get a scope of all the incredible buildings and spires from afar. For me it was the bridge that was my favorite aspect of the city. I only however spent two days in the city and would like to further understand it's history and perhaps visit someday again. 

History of Prague

The history of Central Europe is still rather new to me, and I learned quite a bit in my previous post on Austria. While Vienna was established as a city within the Bavarian region, the city of Prague was established within the Bohemian region. This began as a principality of the Holy Roman Empire that eventually established into it's own Bohemian kingdom. By the year 800 Prague had boomed into a bustling city in Central Europe with its location along the Vltava River. The Prague Castle was one of the first landmarks constructed in the year 870. It served as the royal court for the Kings of Bohemia and the Holy Roman Empire. 

The Vysehrad fortification was constructed in the 10th century along the Vltava River with it's iconic Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul. The Vysehrad cemetery contains some of the most famous Czechs such as musicians Anton Dvorak and Bedrich Smetana. The city became a booming center of merchant trade and brought settlers from all across Europe, including a high percentage of Jews. The first bridge in Prague was built in 1170 known as the Judith Bridge, commissioned by King Vladislaus. This bridge eventually was flooded and replaced by the more iconic Charles Bridge in 1357 which still stands to this day. 

Prague became a flourishing European city under the reign of King Charles IV of the Holy Roman Empire from 1346-1378. As a Bohemian himself he made Prague the new imperial capital of the mighty Holy Roman Empire and gave way to many new infrastructure developments. He commissioned the iconic St. Vitus Cathedral in 1344 which became the centerpiece of the Prague Castle. He also founded Charles University which remains one of the oldest universities in Central Europe. However with growing trade and craftsman guilds came also a new growth of poverty throughout the city.

When Charles died in 1378 his son King Wenceslaus IV oversaw growing religious tensions with the Jews and the rise of the theologian, Jan Hus. Hus was an early predecessor to the famed reformist Martin Luther and spoke against the corruptions of the Catholic Church. He was later murdered for heresy in 1415, however he established an impassioned following of Hussite reformists. In 1419 a Hussite mob murdered several government statesmen in the First Defenestration of Prague. Seven members of the city council were thrown out of the New Town Hall. This shock brought an end to King Wenceslaus IV and the beginning of the religious Hussite Wars throughout the Bohemian lands. 

During the Hussite Wars, Prague became the center for the Hussite radical movement against the Catholic Holy Roman Empire. This conflict lasted from 1419-1434 and the radicals were eventually subdued however a compromise was agreed upon between the Catholics and the moderate Hussites. This was however only the beginning of the religious Christian conflicts sweeping throughout Europe. In 1483 a second defenestration occurred by religious Hussite extremists seeking to maintain influence.  By the 1520s the powerful Habsburg dynasty took control of Bohemia and were quickly at odds with the popular Protestant majority within Prague. By 1576 King Rudolf II took on this reformist identity and brought about an artistic renaissance to the city. Prague became a center for cultural and scientific revolution, bringing about great scientists, artists, and astronomers such as Johannes Keppler. 

The third and most famous Defenestration of Prague occurred in 1618 and is believed to have caused the Thirty Years War. A Protestant mob once again attacked the city officials, this time a council of Catholics and threw them out the window of the Prague Castle. Miraculously however they survived the fall attesting it to the will of the angels. The aftermath of this event was an explosion of military alliances that began in Bohemia and quickly spread throughout all of Europe. The war lasted from 1618-1648 and was one of the most deadliest wars of its time. It escalated from a religious war to a balance of power, in which France took centerstage. The conflict between the Protestants and Catholics was unresolved, the city of Prague however was returned to a Catholic state. 

In 1744 Frederick the Great of Prussia invaded Bohemia and caused much damage to the city of Prague. His siege was eventually repelled by 1757 and despite much damage the city of Prague still stood. By the 1770s, following other European enlightenments Prague once again began to thrive as a cultural epicenter. The Industrial Revolution furthered the cities economy, and the Revolutions of 1848 were suppressed with a new growing fervor of Czech nationalism. By 1880 the Czech language became prevalent over the German language in Prague. After WWI, the Austro-Hungarian Empire was partitioned and a new state of Czechoslovakia was created. 

In 1938 the Czechoslovakia was annexed by Nazi Germany and Hitler had many of it's Jewish population deported and killed. However Prague did resist the occupation, and during the Operation Anthropoid one of Hitler's right hand men, Reinhard Heydrich was assisted by Czech rebels. Prague was able to lead a successful uprising in 1945 as the war was coming to a close. Most Germans were exiled from the country and Czech was quickly under the influence of Communist Russia. In 1955 the Soviet Union constructed the largest Stalin statue in the city of Prague along the Vltava River. It was later demolished in 1962. 

By 1968 a political movement gave way in Prague against the Communist influence of the Soviet Union. The Prague Spring quickly gained traction all throughout Czechoslovakia yet was easily put down by a Soviet military invasion. The Soviets kept a military presence in Czechoslovakia until the Velvet Revolution of 1989. This new social movement expelled their Soviet occupiers by 1991 and reshaped the country of Czechoslovakia. The country was divided into two new sovereign nations, Czech Republic and Slovakia. From this point on Prague became more of a westernized global city of trade and tourism. 

 

Architecture: Key Landmarks

As with most of Europe, the architecture in Prague is quite breathtaking and offers a time portal rich with history. Their is an Old Town district with buildings dating back to the Middle Ages, and a new town district with very modern buildings. The Old Town is my favorite with it's cobblestone streets, the churches, the bridges by the Vltava River, the gothic towers, and the Prague Castle perched on it's hill. The architecture of Prague is a blend of gothic, Baroque, and modern designs. I'd like to highlight some of my favorite structures that I saw during my trip. 

Prague Castle- St. Vitus Cathedral

• Construction: 930, 1344 (current church)
  
• Purpose: Roman Catholic Cathedral
• Architecture Style: Gothic
• Significance: The Prague Castle was home to the Kings of Bohemia and the Holy Roman Empire for many centuries. The castle grounds had a array of buildings but it's true landmark was the glorious St. Vitus Cathedral first constructed in 930. The church was later expanded to it's present day cathedral in 1344 and stands as one of the iconic Gothic structures in Prague. I would argue that the Tyn Church is more distinctive but this cathedral perched on it's high hill serves as the beacon of Prague. 

Charles Bridge

• 
  Construction: 1357-1402
  
• Purpose: Main bridge across the Vltava River
• Architecture Style: Gothic and Baroque
• Significance: The bridge was commissioned by King Charles IV to replace the Judith Bridge that was destroyed by a flood. It has a very distinctive tower standing at 154 feet which we climbed to the top. The bridge also has many Baroque statues depicting religious saints and angels. For me it was my favorite spot in Prague, as well as the Old Town Square. I was glad we got the take a boat tour under and around the bridge on the Vltava River. 

Astronomical Clock

• Construction: 1410
• Purpose: Displays the astronomical position of the stars and planets
• Significance: It is one of the oldest astronomical clocks still in use and without question one of the most distinctive landmarks of Prague. Located near the Old Town square this unique display old mechanics has a very colorful and mythological quality to it. There are four mysterious  figures at the sides of the clock which represent vanity, greed, lust, and death. The bridge is a rather macabre design and adds to the mysterious appeal of Prague. 
  

Church of Our Lady before Tyn

• Construction: 1300s-1450s
• 
  Purpose: Roman Catholic church
• Architecture Style: Gothic
• Significance: It is the focal point of the Old Town square and arguably of the entire city of Prague. It's distinctive quality is it's very unique twin spires that have two layers of four spires branching off. The towers stand at an impressive 260 feet. It's gothic architectural style is at full display and the building is one of the most distinctive features of Prague. For me this was the most recognizable sites before I arrived, and serves as the city's Eiffel tower. The site did not disappoint and was my favorite landmark of Prague along with the Charles Bridge. 
  

Gothic Powder Tower

• Construction: 1475 (Renovated in 1876)
  
• Purpose: Serves as a city gate into Old Town
• Architecture Style: Gothic
• Significance: This is the real first major landmark upon entering the Old Town and serves as a gate. It stands at 213 feet and has a very similar structure to the Charles Bridge Tower. The gate was used to store gunpowder hence the name "Powder Tower". 

Petrin Lookout Tower

• Construction: 1891
• Purpose: Observation and Transmission Tower
• Significance: Built as a replica of the Eiffel Tower, it serves as an observation and transmission tower. The tower stands at 208 feet tall and served as the communications tower of Prague until the much larger Zikov Tower was built in 1992.  

Municipal House

• Construction: 1905-1912
• Purpose: Musical Concert Venue
• Significance: The site use to be home to the King of Bohemia from 1383 to 1485, but was later demolished. In 1905 a new modern building was constructed as a musical concert venue. Although it is not as grandiose as the national theatre, the Smetana Hall is quite a site to see. I say this mostly because we saw a classical concert here and I was very impressed by the outer façade and especially inside the hall.  

Dancing House

• 
  Construction: 1992-1996
• Purpose: Business of NN Investment Group
• Significance: Also referred to as Fred and Ginger as the building depicts two dancers. It was the site of a WWII bombing by the Americans trying to clear our Nazi pockets in 1945. The Dutch insurance company wanted to create something special and unique to commemorate this event. The building also represents Czechoslovakia's transition from Communist influence to it's own independent nation. Unfortunately I did not see this building, but still find it to be a very inspiring and unique display of modern architecture. 
  

Zizkov Television Tower

• Construction: 1985-1992
• Purpose: A communications transmitter
• Architecture Style: Structural Expressionism
  
• Significance: It is the tallest structure in Prague, a modern design of high tech architecture. It stands at 709 feet tall and offers an impressive observatory of the city of Prague. Unfortunately I did not see this structure in Prague, as we were mostly focused on Old town, but I find to be a very unique modern design. 

Church of St. Ludmila

• Construction: 1888-1892
• Purpose: Catholic Church
• Significance: It is one of many impressive Catholic gothic churches located in Prague. Built in the Peace Square it overlooks a very green pasture. The church is named after St. Ludmila of Bohemia, who was the grandmother of good King Wenceslaus. Aside from raising a devout family, she made great efforts to further convert Czech to Christianity during the 9th century. 

Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul

• 
  Construction: 1070-1080; 1887-1903
  
• Purpose: Catholic Church
• Architecture: Neo-Gothic
• Significance: Located at the historic Vysehard Fortification it is one of the oldest sites in the city of Prague. The church was originally built in 1070 however destroyed by fire in 1249. The structure that stands today was built in 1887 in the iconic gothic style popular throughout Prague. Many famous Czechs are buried in the cemetary of this church such as Anton Dvorak and Bedrich Smetana. 

National Monument of Vitkov

• Construction: Built in 1928-1938
• Purpose: A monument to glorify the Czech statehood 
• Significance: Located on the Zikov hill, this monument depicts Jan Zizka riding a horse. He was a general and follower of the Hussite movement who defeated the Catholic king Sigismund in the Battle of Zikov Hill 1420. Below the statue there is also a ceremonial hall and a tomb of the unknown soldier dedicated to the heroic soldiers of WWI and WWII.

National Theatre

• Construction: 1881-1883
  
• Purpose: Hall of Art and culture
• Significance: It is considered the national monument of Czech culture and history. It's main hall stages the finest quality of opera, ballet, and theatre drama. It's worth noting that the first opera performed at the theatre was Bedrich Smetana's Libuse. The large building sits alongside the Vltava River and it's rooftop Triga statues overlook the city. 

Euro Trip 2022

My third Euro Trip was several years in the making and quite delayed due to the Covid outbreak. The plan finally started to take shape in 2020 as soon as I knew Andres would be studying 2 more years abroad in Norway. Although I had been to Stockholm, Sweden I had never been to Norway and it was a country on my bucket list. My early association to the county was the Norwegians I had met in Costa Rica (2009) most notably Anette and Janne. I also knew the country had a beautiful landscape of mountains and fjords. I most definitely wanted to take advantage of having Andres' as my local contact to experience another European culture.

However due to the Covid outbreak I had to push the trip aside. In the winter of 2020-2021 I went thru a major Norwegian mythology and Viking phase due to the video game Assassin's Creed Valhalla. I wanted to visit Norway more than ever last year however still could not due to the difficult Covid protocols. So I pushed the trip aside another year, until a few months ago. I knew I had to visit Andres this springtime before he graduated and returned to the states. But an unexpected surprise came around the same time when I found out that Marc had accepted a new position in Czech Republic. Now my trip really began to take shape. By around mid-March I bought 3 plane tickets to visit Marc in Central Europe and Andres in Norway. 

Dublin, Ireland

So after several weeks of planning and coordinating with Andres and Marc I was ready to travel for 10 days in Europe. I set off on Wednesday to drive from Indy to Chicago and leave my car parked at a nearby hotel for the week. This was the first time I had done long-term parking, but it worked out well with a fair rate at Best Western. There was a free shuttle that took me to the airport. I cleared security and was at my gate with a couple hours to spare. I knew I had a tight window to catch my connection from Dublin to Vienna so was really hoping the take-off process would go quick. That however was the opposite of what happened. 

For starters the plane arrived late, which put our boarding process back a good 30 minutes. However even at that point the Aer Lingus staff informed us we would still hit our ETA. But the situation got worse when a tornado storm swept thru Chicago around 4pm, and put us back another 30 minutes. We finally boarded and took-off about an hour behind schedule. At this point I had accepted that I would probably miss my connection and would have to stay a day in Dublin. The flight was a quick one at 6 hours, of which I gave my seat to an Asian couple and watched 2 movies. However I was on edge thinking about whether I could still make the connection and how I would go about getting vouchers for Dublin.

So by the time the plane arrived and reached the gate at 6:20am, my connection flight to Vienna had already taken off. So I calmly accepted that I would stay the day in Dublin and make the most out of a city and country that was on my bucket list. It took me some time to find where the customer service for Aer Lingus was but I eventually did. The staff offered me an option to leave at 1pm with a connection in Amsterdam, but I decided I had flown enough that day and took their hotel voucher. It took me a little bit to find the shuttle, of which I had a conversation with a friendly Irish lady who reminded me of Ingrid. When I got to the hotel at around 8am, go figure the room would not be ready for another few hours. So I had to hangout in the lobby, enjoyed a nice free breakfast, and took an exploratory walk to find a store as I needed a phone charger. 

I finally got into my hotel room at around 11:30am (5:30am in the states) and it would be quite fair to say I was very tired. But I knew I had to make the most of my time in Dublin, so I took a shower and caught an Uber to the city by around 12:30pm. The Uber driver was a very friendly Irish person and gave me a great history of the city as we drove in. He even showed me how there were still bullet holes in some of the buildings from the Troubles Era. My first destination was perhaps the most iconic, the St. Patrick's Cathedral. I took many pictures and took it all in. The city was loaded with pedestrians and tourists but for the most part I find it rather mundane (compared to other historical European cities). 

I crossed the River Liffey and even sat on a bench for a while to take in my surroundings. After walking around for a couple hours I found a souvenir shop near the Temple Bar strip and bought some items to take home. I also went to a bar to use their Wifi to order a Guinness and an Uber back to my hotel. I made it back to the hotel around 3pm and had my complimentary lunch at the hotel. I then went back to my room, took a shower, watched some TV, and fell asleep by around 7pm. I however woke up around 1am, and could not fall back asleep. My flight out of Dublin to Vienna was at 6am, so I left the hotel early. I was beyond tired but so glad I made the most of the unexpected variable. I was now back on schedule as the flight took off to Vienna, city of music. 

Vienna, Austria

The flight from Dublin to Vienna, was a couple hours, and I lost another couple hours due to the time zones. So I arrived in Vienna by around 10am local time, and caught an Uber to the hotel. I was so very happy to see Andres in the lobby. I had bought his ticket from Norway and we had coordinated that he meet Marc and I. He had arrived the previous night as planned and met with Marc. So now Andres and I had the afternoon to explore Vienna, while Marc was back at work in Brno, Czech. We went up to the room, only briefly though as they had to be checked out by noon. I put on a hat, t-shirt, and jeans and we set off to sightsee. It was a very hot day but I had a plan of action of sites that I wanted to see and things to do.

We first made it to the main plaza where the glorious St. Stephen's Cathedral stood. I had only recently found out about this classical work of architecture, but was very amazed by it's unique design. It had the look of a classic Gothic European cathedral, but also had a unique feature in it's colorful patterned roof of green, black, and yellow. We went inside the cathedral and took a lap, but the area was swarming with tourists. We then went searching for a place to eat lunch as I was very hungry. I was specifically searching for the Austrian's claim to fame, the Weiner schnitzel.

After a good lunch outside with the traditional fried veal and some tasty Weiss beers we continued to walk around. We then went in search of Mozart's house, which was a bit challenging to locate on the phone map. I bought us two tickets to take a tour of the famous house that Mozart lived in during the height of his career in the 1790s. The house had been turned into a museum of course but it was still quite amazing to imagine it was where he composed many of his greatest works. After the museum we walked around some more and we surprisingly found an Aldi's. We were very thirsty as it was a hot day, and bought some refreshing juices there and found a bench nearby to sit and relax. 

By around 4 pm, we found a souvenir shop and then headed back to the hotel where we regrouped at the lobby for a little bit. The plan was then to catch an Uber ride from the hotel to a train station, and then take the train to the city of Brno. We had a little bit of time to spare at the train station and I bought us some apple strudels. The train from Vienna to Brno was about an hour ride, and I remember feeling very exhausted from the heat at that point. However I still enjoyed the view thru the countryside and it was nice to experience once again a European train ride. 

Brno, Czech Republic

We arrived to Brno by around 6pm and I remember instantly feeling I had crossed into a new realm of Eastern Europe. The surrounding area reminded me of a gloomy, dirty, industrial, poorly managed city once owned by the Soviet Union. There was graffiti all over the walls and the trash cans were overflowing with garbage. The locals at the train station were also questionable with their gothic punk look, and I must confess to feeling a bit nervous as we were in search of Marc. After maybe ten minutes we finally found him and begin to walk to the hotel. This was a good 10 minute walk thru cobblestone streets to Marc's hotel. I took a quick shower once we got there, changed, and was ready to take on the very different city. 

We first went to a bar named Stromboli after the popular Czech beer brand. This was not to be mistaken with their competitor Pilsner Urqell, which I foolishly requested from the waitress. According to Marc, Czech consumed the most beer per capita, and it was very cheap. So naturally I knew we would be drinking a lot in Czech. It was a very cool night, which was at first a nice contrast to the heat of Vienna, but eventually got uncomfortable. After a few drinks at the first outdoor bar, we found another restaurant outside in a busy plaza. One thing that was very interesting about Brno, is all the people out in the streets drinking beer. I had never seen anything quite like this as we walked around. 

The restaurant was packed but we eventually found a table outside where a techno rave was happening in the plaza. This was the most eastern European thing I could imagine and was unfolding right before our eyes as we drank and ate. The food was incredibly delicious as we ordered a massive platter of ribs, bread, and sauerkraut. I had a couple more beers there, but really began to feel tired and knew I wasn't going to be able to party on with Andres and Marc (after all I had been awake since 1am that day). So I went back to the hotel around 10pm to get some much needed rest while Andres and Marc partied on. They did not return to the hotel until 4am.

Prague, Czech Republic

By Saturday morning I felt like I had finally caught up to European time and was ready as ever to make the most of my European trip. Marc was an incredible trooper, having partied until 4am in the morning he drove us out of Brno by around 10am. The drive to Prague was a couple hours but it flew by as we discussed our previous European trips. We stopped halfway to get some breakfast and coffee at a gas station, and arrived to Prague by around noon. Once we checked into the fancy hotel we wasted no time to check out the Old Town by the Vltava River. 

The town square of Prague is quite incredible and reminded me very much of the Brussels main plaza. Surrounded by outdoor cafes and restaurants the focal point of the square is the impressive Tyn Church. The two spires of this church soar into the sky with smaller spires branching off from the main ones. It has a very Gothic dark and mysterious look to it, which is the allure to Prague. On the corner of the square is the iconic astronomical clock. Built in 1410 it is one of the oldest clocks of the kind still in operation. I have no idea how it works, but assume it tells the alignment of the planets and stars in conjunction with the time. It's a very impressive, colorful, and mystical design. 

We had an incredible lunch outside in the busy town square overlooking the Tyn Church. I ordered a couple beers and the country Bohemian platter which was a feast of duck, sausage, pork roast, cabbage, and bread. We then continued to walk towards the Vltava River and it's iconic Charles Bridge with its massive tower. Far away perched on a hill is the Prague Castle (which consists of other cathedrals). We decided to take a boat tour on the river, which turned out to be a much longer wait than we had anticipated. During the wait we scoped out the Charles Bridge museum, which was included with our admission. It took however almost an hour and a half to finally board our boat. The tour on the river was however quite worth it and offered some breathtaking views of Prague. 

By the time we got off the boat it was evening and we were still considering our night plans. I suggested we get some opera tickets before the big UEFA champions league final match between Liverpool and Madrid. I bought us all tickets for an hour long concert of opera, classical music, and ballet. I had quite the scare when I could not find the tickets but later realized we never picked them up at the ticket booth. Before the show at 8pm, we went back to the hotel to rest and have a few pre-game drinks. Andres wanted to further rest while Marc and I walked to the theatre with a beer in our hands. Andres later joined us right before the show started. The show was a very impressive and enjoyable experience to the music of Mozart, Anton Dvorak, and Johann Strauss. 

We went into the opera show assuming we would likely miss the start of the big soccer championship and might not even find a place to watch the game due to overcrowding. However as soon as the show was finished we darted out of the theatre in search of a bar to watch the game. Marc somehow located a TV screen inside a bar at the main square. It was actually a Spanish restaurant that had some space in it. What was even more surprising though was the game had been delayed 30 minutes, and we actually had the chance to catch the whole thing. We were able to convince the bartender to let us sit and watch the game near his check-out screen. 

The waiter treated us like royalty and let us sit at the bar, and even reserved us a table in the corner to eat and order food. As the game began, many other customers seeking to watch the game were turned away since there was no space. And yet we had front row views to the game, and even our own reserved table to eat. Andres ordered his food at the start of the game, but Marc and I ordered our food at halftime. I got some yummy grilled chicken and potatoes. Andres left at halftime, since he was still very tired from his previous night of partying. Unfortunately Real Madrid beat Liverpool 1-0 but Marc and I were still just getting started into the night. 

At the Spanish restaurant we met an Indian person from Toronto named David, who was a soccer enthusiast like me. After the game he took us to a British bar to meet his other friends where the music was jamming. I had several beers here and was really starting to have fun. Later on Marc wanted to following David and his friends to another bar, but I hesitated as it meant taking an Uber to the outskirts. I was able to convince Marc to stay at the British bar and we parted ways from David. We then went to a Czech dance club which was incredible fun. The club was packed and played all American music. I remember feeling so proud to know all the words to the songs, and felt like everyone was gravitating towards us. We stayed at this bar until maybe 2am, and then Marc convinced me to join him at a casino where we played some roulette for a while. I remember on the way out bumping into some flirtatious Bulgarian girls but nothing happened there. We did not get back to the hotel room until 4am. It was one of the funnest nights I have had in a very long time.  

That next morning I woke up around 10am, head pounding but quickly popped out of bed to continue the adventure. Our plan for that Sunday was to walk to the castle, which was almost a 3 mile walk from our hotel. We had a late lunch in the castle grounds and I ordered a very refreshing chicken Caesar salad. We saw some cathedrals and buildings within the castle grounds, but had to cut our tour somewhat short as it began to rain. The walk back from the castle was quite challenging not to slip on the wet stones as we descended downward. At the Charles Bridge we climbed the tower there to get a better view of the river and the city. It truly is one the most beautiful cities in the world on par with Paris, Rome, or London. It has such a gothic and romantic element to it, almost like something out of a dark fantasy. 

That evening we went back to the hotel, rested for a bit then got some pizza and beer for dinner. I was quite unimpressed with the pizza there but it did the job. After dinner I was able to find us a show that evening that was a Black Light Theatre Show. It was unlike anything I'd ever seen before that used a black light illusion to create a truly magical visuals. The show was entertaining but also very hypnotic and we all struggled from dozing off. It was around 9pm by the time the show ended and we took one final lap got some desert then headed back to the hotel. Andres went out to meet a friend that night, while Marc and I went to bed around 10ish. The next morning Marc had to leave early for work, and this brought an end to the Central Europe phase. I was so very thankful for his hosting and what a great time we had with him.

Stavanger, Norway

Andres and I had breakfast at the hotel and caught an Uber to the airport by around 10:30am. We had two flights that afternoon, Prague to Oslo, then Oslo to Stavanger. I believe we arrived to Stavanger by around 4pm, and thankfully Andres had coordinated us a pickup by one of his friends. Turns out this friend, was his study abroad mentor, named Lars and was letting us stay in his basement (which he rented out as a BnB). This was going to save us a lot of money and I was very grateful to both Andres and Lars. He was a bit older than I had expected, in his early 40s, but was a very friendly person and a great insight to local Stavanger and Norwegian culture. 

That evening Lars drove us to a nearby waterfall to go for a hike. On the way there we stopped in at a local store to get some snacks and beer. I quickly discovered how expensive things were as I spent 30$ for a 12 pack case of beer. The hike was quite challenging as we climbed uphill having to use a chain rail to hang on. There was also a light rain in the air, which made for a real authentic rural experience. The surroundings were quite incredible in this mountainous green valley and it reminded me of my time hiking thru the mountains of San Vicente in Costa Rica. The view of the waterfall was very impressive and very worth the hike. 

That evening Lars let me drive his electric car, in preparation for the next day as I was to drive us to our next hike. For some strange reason Andres could not drive in the country but I could. Although I really did not want to drive in Europe, I knew I had to in order to make our plans come thru. The challenging part was not the drive but getting familiar with Lar's electric car which drove a little different (and probably better then most cars). On our way back we stopped at an incredible view of a fjord and then went to downtown Stavanger. I was so shocked to find out that it was almost 10pm, even though it was still a rather clear night out. Lars explained to us that it was only dark for a short period in Norway. For dinner all the restaurants were at closing point so we had to settle for some hamburgers at a 7/11 store (which were very tasty I might add). We made it back to Lars' house by around 11pm and went to bed.

The next morning was to be our big hike at the Preikestolen Fjord (also known as the Pulpit Rock). The drive was about an hour away which I drove thru the winding hills and into underground tunnels (including the longest underwater tunnel in the world). We made it to the natural park by around 10ish and began our long hike. It was once again very challenging uphill hike, on a trail ascending stones. This time there were many other hikers with us, most of which had their hiking poles and raincoats on. We had hoped to beat the rain, but sure enough it did start to rain about 30 minutes into our hike.  Andres and I were probably the only ones not wearing raincoats, however it was a very light rain and added to the adventure for me. 

It took us about two hours to make it to the top peak of the fjord and was truly a breathtaking view. My heart was pumping as we decided to take a picture along the very high ledge of the fjord. We then sat for a bit and had some snacks at the rock, watching other tourists take pictures. Some of which were jumping and sitting along the deathly ledge. I was very to have seen the view and even more so to clear away from the deadly fall. The downward hike was of course even more challenging, especially with the wet rocks but thankfully neither of us fell. I think we finally made it back to our car by 3pm and it made for a 6 mile hike. We had to pick up Lars on the way home and then stopped at a grocery store to get some food. Lars treated us that evening to a typical Norwegian meal, I ordered fish, bacon, potatoes, and peas. It was actually quite tasty. That night we stayed in and watched the Djokovic-Nadal quarterfinal tennis match. Lars joined us for a few casual drinks in the basement.

On the third day in Stavanger we finally got to sleep in. Andres went out and bought some groceries on the bus while I chillaxed on the couch and read my book. We did not leave the house until about 1 in the afternoon when one of Andres' friends took us to the Stavanger Oil Museum. His name was Evan and he was a local Norwegian dating one of Andres' classmates, Christiana a girl from Serbia. She met us at the museum and the four of us walked around the museum and then took a tour of Stavanger. Evan was quite knowledgeable and proud of Stavanger culture and history. We ate lunch at a fancy seafood restaurant near the port. My food was somewhat bland and paid a shocking $70 for mine and Andres meals (along with 2 beers). After lunch Evan took us thru old town Stavanger which was a nicely kept neighborhood with cobblestone street and beautiful plants and flowers. 

We then invited Evan and Christina back to our basement area to have a few beers. Evan could not partake since Norway had a zero tolerance for drinking and driving but Christina had a beer with us. We sat outside and had a riveting conversation about professional tennis and soccer. Before we knew it, it was time to meet Andres' other university friends downtown for drinks. Lars and his daughter gave us a ride to the first bar we went to. It was probably around 8pm by this point and I met Andres' best friend and roommate, a Indonesian girl named Kim. She was a bartender there and a very interesting person with a Norwegian accent. She treated us to several of the crafted beers there, as well as some Viking mead, spicy chicken wings, and truffle fries. I offered to pay but she kindly said it was on the house. 

She then invited us to sit with a local American there named Andy. He was 30 years old from Pennsylvania and a literature student. He was one of the more interesting American's I have met in a very long while as he was very cultured. We had an engaging conversation about literature, that left everyone else at the table rather dumfounded. He could not stop talking about the writings of the Colombian author, Gabriel Garcia Marquez. He was also very much in a celebratory mood as he had just accepted a new job teaching literature in Vienna. We finally parted ways with him and went to the next club. 

The night club was packed and we had to wait in line for a bit, until one of the staff there welcomed Andres into the backdoor. Apparently he had VIP status since he worked for a different bar. This was great not to have to wait in line anymore. I ordered our small group of 4 a round of beer (we had recruited another of Andres' friend while we waited in line). I was especially eager to pay Kim back for her very generous offerings at the first bar. I felt a little overaged at first at the bar, but then started to loosen up. I remember after the third round I tripped over the foot railing at the bar while trying to get the bartenders attention. This was quite embarrassing as I was not even drunk. I later got over this though as several blonde Norwegian girls started dancing with me on the floor.

After the club we went to another busy bar and ordered a few more drinks. I was once again so impressed by the local girls and how aggressive on the dance floor they were. We were all having a good time and I met a lot of Andres' bartending coworkers and his college friends. We decided to leave around 2:30am and waited a good half hour at the bus stop. This wasn't so bad though because Andres bumped into another friend and she talked with us while we waited. We then got on the bus, and got off to early ending up in some remote farm fields. I had to navigate us home using my phone map, which was a mile walk thru country fields at 3am. We walked thru high grasses in the rain and it made for an incredible adventure. We were happy to finally get home by 4am after yet another very fun night in Europe. 

On my last day there we once again got to sleep in. I think I finally got out of bed by around 11am, and made us a tortellini lunch. We then caught the bus to Andres' campus where he was to give a speech about Indiana. This was also a great experience to see Andres' presentation and his campus. I was so impressed by the diverse culture that had amassed in this coffee shop to hear his presentation which was a total success. After this we explored the campus with Kim for a bit, then returned to Stavanger to buy some souvenirs and presents for Lars. Kim once again joined us in town and we had another walk around the city. She was so very friendly to us, and was one of the favorite people I met in my four days in Stavanger. 

That evening we were treated to a local dinner by Lars' family which was a fresh shrimp meal. It was customary for them to peel the shrimps together and make very tasty sandwiches with mayonnaise, avocado, and herbs. We had wine with our meal and conversed for several hours. I presented them some fancy chocolate and coffee as a sign of gratitude (which was nowhere near enough). Andres stayed up conversing with Lars while I began to pack. That evening Lars joined us to watch the Serbia-Norway soccer match. He bid me farewell and I once again told him I grateful I was for his hospitality. It was thru Lars hosting that I got an incredible insider view into Norwegian culture. 

The next morning on Friday I bid farewell to Andres after a very memorable and busy week long of adventure. We were both ready to get back to our routines and relax a bit. But first I had one more very busy travel day ahead and it was once again filled with challenges. I caught the Uber to the airport around 9am, and had to take a Covid test there in order to return to the states. Thankfully I tested negative, even though it cost me nearly 100$. I then had three flights ahead of me; Stavagner-Oslo, Oslo-Copenhagen, and Copenhagen-Chicago. My connection in Copenhagen was a very tight one, and I was hit was an epic panic when they told me I should have gone thru security check again. Luckily there was a security check at the gate and I was able to board the plane (almost the last one on the plane to Chicago). 

The plane ride home was a very long uncomforting one, for a good 8 hours. I watched 3 movies to help pass the time. We finally landed around 5pm Chicago time and I was so glad to be off that plane. The customs check actually went pretty quick and my next challenge was to find a ride to the hotel where my car was parked. I decided to call the hotel to send a shuttle thinking it was a long shot, but they actually did. It was free of charge and I had bypassed the cost and challenge of catching an Uber at the airport. I was so very happy at this point as I now finally felt in control again. My car was in good shape just as I had left it. I went to the hotel bathroom and then embarked on the long drive from Chicago to Indy. This was a good 4 hour drive due to traffic, and the final 2 hours were very challenging to stay awake. I finally made it home in Indy at around 12am and went straight to bed. This marked the end to a very adventurous European experience.