Historical Study: Billy the Kid

Well I've finally turned the page on my Colombia and Latin American phase to give full appreciation to the fall season. As per annual tradition I just love to dip into some of that rural Americana around this time of the year. Whether that be watching football, drinking beer, going on long runs, appreciating the foliage, visiting small country towns, eating apple pies, or drinking apple cider. Although I feel like we only get 2 proper months of autumn from October thru November. September is still too hot and December it's on to the Christmas season. Nonetheless the fall season it is still without question my favorite of the 4 seasons. 

For me another annual fall element is a heightened appreciation of our folklore tradition. Since I am quite the historical nerd, I just love to dip into some of that Old West/1800s history which I believe is the basis of much our folklore tales. It was in the era of Daniel Boone, Davey Crockett, Edgar Allen Poe, and even the great Abraham Lincoln where our American culture finally established an identity. These frontiersmen, poets, and great leaders became considered American Folk heroes. However while there were good folk heroes there were also bad ones that were for some strange reason admired by the general public. 

After the Civil War, there was a wave of American outlaws, gangs, and bandits spread across the western regions. This era of lawlessness, has become the staple of what we know as the Old West, an era frequently depicted in movies and stories. Some of the most infamous outlaws of this time were Jesse James, Butch Cassidy, and Billy the Kid. Perhaps they represented a new form of freedom and adventure that sold hotly in the press. A second wave of criminal glorification occurred during the Public Enemies era of the 1920-1930s which I have already written about here. Both eras captured the public's imagination and fascination. While they were ultimately criminals they have somehow transformed into American folk heroes. I have already written about the Jesse James Gang and the Cochise Cowboy Gang but now I want to focus on the iconic Billy the Kid.

This guy has become one of the leading figures from the Old West era, and yet he did not live pass the age of 21. I got a little familiar with Billy the Kid during my Old Western phase of 2021 whilst playing the video game Red Redemption and reading up on the outlaws of the late 1800s. He was even a character in the book series I read; The Secrets of the Immortal Nicholas Flamel. However I have yet to see a proper movie about Billy the Kid that has truly inspired me until recently watching the Michael Hirst television production of 2022 starring Tom Blyth. Here we finally get a drawn out story of Billy the Kid and how he became this iconic outlaw. What I've most gathered from the show is that he was an orphan with nothing to lose, and perhaps explains how he was able to live such a carefree and fearless life.  

Early Years

Born with the name Henry McCarty in 1859, his parents were both Irish immigrants living in New York City. Following the death of his father, his mother moved the family to Indianapolis Indiana where they lived for several years during the 1860s. He lived there with his mother and brother Joe in the neighborhood today known as Mass Ave. His mother re-married and moved the family to Wichita Kansas in 1870 and then to Santa Fe, New Mexico. She died of tuberculosis in 1874 leaving both Joe and Henry as orphans. 

Henry moved into a boarding house at the age of 14 and changed his name to William H. Bonney. He began committing his first crimes around this time of robbery and was eventually captured and arrested. He managed to escape prison where he became an outlaw fugitive and left the town of Santa Fe for the southeastern region of Arizona. He found work as a ranch-hand where he began to associate with other criminal gang members. By 1876 Bonney had gotten the nickname of the Kid due to his youthful clean cut cocky personality. A year later he killed his first man out of self defense and was once again arrested but fled from the law. A two time fugitive now he fled to Lincoln County, New Mexico where he joined a group of cattle rustlers led by an English businessman named Henry Tunstall. 

Lincoln County War

In 1878 a major dispute broke-out between Henry Tunstall's posse and his rival gang of Irish-Americans led by Lawrence Murphy, James Dolan, and John Riley. In a dispute over land and cattle, Henry Tunstall was shot and killed in the back of the head by Sheriff Brady's men who supported the Murphy-Dolan-Riley posse. William Boney and his friend Dick Brewer swore vengeance on Sherriff Brady and his corrupt jail guards. They joined the Lincoln County Regulators in partnership with deputy Robert Widenmann and killed two of the men who killed Tunstall.

In April of 1878 the Regulators then attacked Sherriff Brady's posse and Billy the Kid shot and killed Sherriff Brady. A few days later the Shootout at Blazer's Mill occurred where Billy's friend Dick Brewer was killed. Bonney was once again charged with murder and went into hiding for a while in the midst of another manhunt. In July the Regulators amassed a small army of 60 men to take over the town of Lincoln. Sherrif George Pippen called upon the US military to assist and break up this takeover. Another shootout ensued that resulted in over 20 deaths including Tunstall's lawyer Alexander McSween.

Outlaw Status

Following the Lincoln War, William H. Bonney emerged as one the most notorious gunfighters from the dispute and further warrants were issued for his arrest. He witnessed the harsh execution of lawyer Huston Chapman, by his enemy Jesse Evans. In an attempt to free himself of all charges he struck a deal with the governor of New Mexico to provide a testimony in court on the murder of Huston Chapman. In doing so Bonney had to give himself up to the police who did not let him free. Bonney was once again able to escape prison for the 3rd time and found hide-out in Fort Sumner, New Mexico. 

By 1880 he was now referred to as Billy the Kid, and shot and killed Joe Grant in a bar saloon dispute. In November of 1880 he got involved in another shootout at the Greathouse Ranch with the local sheriff dept. He later returned to town with his friend Tom Folliard where they were ambushed by the lawman Patt Garret and his posse. Billy the Kid was able to escape however his good friend Folliard was shot and killed in the shootout. Shortly after this the governor of New Mexico put a bounty on Billy the Kid's head. In December of 1880 Pat Garrett captured Billy the Kid and his posse and were surronded by curious onlookers. By this point Billy the Kid had become a famous outlaw through the press.

Billy the Kid was sent to a jail in Lincoln New Mexico where he was frequently visited by the curious public and journalists. He was admired for his unique calmness in the face of public execution. He however managed to escape yet again by shooting and killing two of the local jail guards. He stole a horse and fled the town of Lincoln. Once again Pat Garrett hunted Billy the Kid down with two deputies where they found his hideout house. In a darkened bedroom, they awaited Billy to arrive where Pat Garrett shot him in the chest. He died shortly after at the young age of 21 on July 14, 1881.

His legacy continued to grow overtime as one of the most famous figures of the Old West. He was best renown for his gunfighting skills and cool demeanor under pressure. Despite his lack of education he showed very clever wit and was fluent in Spanish. There are claims that Billy the Kid killed 21 people throughout his life, however factual evidence states the number was actually 9 (the most notorious being the murder of Sheriff Brady and two deputies). I believe his true claim to fame and fascination was his reckless confidence of youth. 

Book Review: Love in the Time of Cholera

I began my first phase of Colombian culture appreciation in the summer of 2022 when I took on the classic novel, 100 Years of Solitude by Gabriel Garcia Marquez. I actually had no knowledge of the works of Marquez until I made a deep study on literature in 2019. I came to understand that he had two novels regarded as masterful works of literature; 100 Years of Solitude and Love in the Time of Cholera. I was all the more encouraged to see a Colombian author included with some of the all time great writers such as Dickens, Jane Austen, Mark Twain, Steinbeck to name a few. 

However that summer when I read 100 Years of Solitude, I was not as inspired as I had hoped to be. I actually found it to be one of the more challenging books I had ever read and found myself very lost with what exactly was going on. It's a book about about a family set in a fictional town in Colombia that spans 100 years thru their generations. If ever there was a book that captured this ideal of magical realism it is this one. It provides a realistic setting, with many elements of subtle fantasy and magical occurrences throughout the book. I wrote a review here, and for the most part gave it a rather disappointing assessment. However maybe someday I might give it a 2nd read through given that it is considered such a treasure of Colombian culture.

When I knew I would be visiting Colombia for the first time, I planned to take my 2nd plunge into the study of Colombian culture. As per usual when it comes to my phases I not only need some good television and movie content but also a book pertaining to Colombia. There was really only one that jumped out at me and that was Marquez's other novel, Love in the Time of Cholera. I was honestly a little hesitant to take on this book, having been so disappointed with 100 Years of Solitude. However thankfully I had bought it two years ago and it was just sitting on my bookshelf waiting to be read. And so I embarked on the journey just a week before we flew out to Medellin. I had hoped to finish it while in Colombia, but there never really was much any spare time to finish. I did however finish it this morning and can honestly say it was a good book, far more comprehensive then 100 Years of Solitude. 

The Premise

The story is set during the 1920s in a small unnamed town in Colombia, likely near the Caribbean coast along the Magdelena River (maybe on the outskirts of Barranquilla). It begins by recounting the life of Dr. Juvenal Urbino who is a well respected practitioner in the town. He is a man of routine and makes daily house visits throughout town treating his patients mostly of cholera. It is his wife of over 50 years, Fermina Diaz that keeps him in line, who lives a solitary domestic life. At the age of 80 Dr. Juvenal Urbino falls from a ladder and dies while trying to catch a parrot in the house. His wife Fermina is devastated by the loss, but she is then visited by an acquaintance from her youth, Florentino Ariza, who has waited all his life for this moment.

The story then backtracks some 50 years when Fermina and Florentino first met. Florentino is no doubt a hopeless romantic and is stricken by love when he sees Fermina. So he writes poetry to her everyday and eventually finds the courage to ask for her courtship. Fermina accepts and the two even plan to marry until Fermina's father intervenes. Fermina's father deems Florentino unworthy of his daughters, and he takes her away from town for 2 years. During this time Fermina and Florentino still maintain correspondence, but when they finally reunite Fermina realizes she no longer loves him. Florentino must then go on with the heartbreak while Fermina's life moves in another direction. 

Fermina is then courted by the well-respected young doctor Dr. Juvenal Urbino, who is able to win the favor of Fermina's father and quickly asks for her hand in marriage. Not out of love but more out of financial stability Fermina agrees and the two get married. Throughout their marriage they do share some special moments such as a trip to Europe. However for the most part their love lacks passion and is one of domestic necessity, raising children while sharing the same household together. It seems they often disagree and fight more than anything, and it is later revealed that Urbino has a brief affair with a Jamaican patient. This further distances Fermina however she stays true to him until his death. 

Meanwhile Florentino goes on thru life as an eligible bachelor who manages a riverboat company with his uncle. Unlike the stable relationship of Fermina, he has many various love affairs with different women throughout his life. This includes the woman he first has sex with Rosalba, his secretary Leona Cassina who becomes his true best friend, Sara Noriega a fellow poetry enthusiast, and later in the book as he gets much older he dates a young teenager named America Vicuna. However throughout all these affairs of passionate sex, he continues to keep an eye on Fermina, longing for the day she might be free once again. 

Eventually this day does come towards the end of the book, after the funeral of Dr. Juvenal Urbino. Both Fermina and Florentino are elders at this point in their 70s but slowly begin to reacquaint themselves. Florentino confesses that he has never stopped loving her since they were young. Fermina eventually welcomes his visits and even invites her children to meet him. They later decide to take a romantic boat ride along the Magdelena River where they share many intimate moments. Upon Fermina's wishes, Florentino is able to convince the captain (who works for him) to remove all other passengers and cargo so he can have more privacy with Fermina. They are able to do so by hoisting the yellow flag of cholera up-and-down the river in what the two hope to be an endless journey together. 

The Review

I was honestly hooked after the first chapter of this book. Similar to 100 Years of Solitude I found the writing to be loaded with backstory detail, however this time it was easier to tie together with the events unfolding in the book. The opening chapter took me for quite the surprise when it recounts the happy life and marriage of Dr. Juvenal Urbina and Fermina. This to me seemed like the happy ending story, and that the chapters to follow would be a detailed prequel of how they first met and fell in love. But that was not the case, when Fermina was visited by Florentino after Urbina's funeral. All of a sudden the plot thickened and what seemed like a simple story of domestic marriage became a triangular love affair.

In the first chapter it seemed liked Dr. Juvenal Urbina was going to be the main character of this book, that is until he died and the story then shifted on the perspectives of Florentino and Fermina. From the 2nd chapter onward the story recounts how Florentino and Fermina fell in love during their youth, and then went their separate ways in different trajectories. Fermina lived the typical housewife life with children and good financial stability. She was likely content with her situation and probably did love Dr. Juvenal Urbina, but more so in a platonic way. Meanwhile Florentino lived the opposite life of freedom and passionate sex, but still with a sense of emptiness. One can only imagine the emotional pain he had to endure for a lifetime, unable to get over Fermina. Although he did not have children, his life was also a good one, with financial success and many love affairs.

The final chapter of the book, finally reunites Fermina and Florentino as elders free from any constraints. Marquez makes clear in this chapter the undeniable presence of old age where both are physically and mentally aware of their incapacities. However despite their wrinkly skin and frequent naps they still share a powerful bond they had missed for the past 50 years. Here are two people united not by physical beauty but more so a passionate chemistry of wisdom and experience. Its a remarkable conclusion and a very happy ending for these two lovers to reunite at their final years of life. 

As I said in the opening I sincerely enjoyed this book and found the detailed writing to offer great insight into Colombian culture. I could sincerely envision the small Colombian towns, the large family gatherings, and the meals they shared together. I think the three main characters (Dr. Juvenal, Fermina, and Florentino) were all very unique and complex characters, especially Florentino. He was a true romantic, an artist, a poet, an adventurer, and a free-spirited person which was probably not very common in Latin America during the 1920s. I think I could probably most relate to his character as a single free-spirited person myself. 

However one thing I did not like too much about Florentino's character was his love affair with the 14 year old America Vicuna (when he was in his 70s). I think this is a detail Marquez could have left out of the story because it somewhat takes away from the sympathy received towards Florentino. Furthermore when she commits suicide at the end of the book, Florentino simply pushes this upsetting news aside so that he can fully focus on Fermina. I think this is a rather dark and very unnecessary element of the book. Perhaps on the flip side it demonstrates how deep in love Florentino is with Fermina, that he is willing to end the relationship with a beautiful young girl for a much older woman. 

I remember one night whilst visiting my brother in Stavanger, Norway we met an American literature professor at a bar. He was a very interesting person, obviously quite knowledgeable of classic literature and we spent several hours having engaging conversation of our favorite books. And I remember he said this book was his all time favorite. I can now understand what he was describing and how this book is considered a masterpiece classic. I believe it is loaded with so much details that it could also be read again to further appreciate. I think it presents the theme of love in two contrasting ways; platonic vs. passionate, and young love vs old love. The love affair of Florentino and Fermina comes full circle after 50 years and I think that's what especially makes this such a magical story.        

Historical Study: Medellin Cartel

In anticipation of our recent trip to Colombia, I've made a deep dive into Colombian culture and history the past month. Sadly one of Colombia's biggest claims to fame is their history of drug trafficking, much thanks to the infamous drug lord Pablo Escobar. From 1976-1993 Pablo Escobar operated one of the largest and most profitable drug cartels in the world. His organization was based out of the city of Medellin, Colombia. Their specialty was in the production and distribution of cocaine, but they also branched out into other criminal dealings as well. In order to sustain power the Medellin Cartel often used corrupt bribery, violence, and terrorism to keep their operation flowing. It is believed that over 4,000 people were killed in relation to the Medellin Cartel.

There can be no question that Pablo Escobar only cared about money and power. However it does bring into question the character of this man who was able to operate an illegal business for over 20 years. At one point Escobar was the 7th wealthiest person in the world thru his drug trafficking empire that managed 80% of the world's cocaine distribution at one point. His operation was based throughout Colombia but also parts of South America, Central America, the Caribbean, and into America (notably Florida, California, and New York). Also worth noting is that he did pour a lot of his finances into the infrastructure of Medellin and Colombia. Many locals considered him somewhat of a Robin Hood for his contributions to the poor, schools, and building projects. 

I've watched the Netflix show Narcos twice now and find it be one of the best produced television shows about Latin American history. The setting provides a very insightful look into the rise of Escobar and the Medellin Cartel, as well as the sweeping landscape of this beautiful city. One thing I came to understand from the show, was that it was thru American intervention that finally brought Pablo down. There was simply to much money coming from this operation and that considered the higher ups in America. So without further ado I want to understand two aspects to this topic. Who was Pablo Escobar and how did he create such a successful illegal operation that rivaled some of the most famous Mafia organizations. Also who were the other key players of this Medellin Cartel and what was it's operating structure.

The Rise of Pablo Escobar

Quite interestingly Colombia was slow to the cocaine business and first known for it's marijuana trafficking throughout the 1960s. It was actually Chile, Argentina, and Brazil that had become the first major cocaine distributors in South America. When Augosto Pinochet came to power in Chile in 1973, with the backing of the United States, who led a violent campaign against the illegal drug production. This led to many Chilean cocaine traffickers to flee to Colombia and set up a new operation there. While Chile had mastered the art of cocaine production they needed new Colombian smugglers and traffickers to work with.

Pablo Escobar was born in Rionegra, Colombia in 1949 and grew up in the city of Medellin. As a young teenager he quickly turned to a life of crime trading cigarettes, fake lottery tickets, stealing cars, and other smuggling activities. By the early 1970s he had established a network of smuggling trade routes thru Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia. It was the success of his smuggling operation that brought him attention by the Chilean cocaine distributors looking to traffic their product. In 1976 Escobar established the Medellin Cartel with other prominent drug dealers with cocaine as their primary source of trade. 

The Medellin Cartel

While Pablo Escobar was the undisputed leader of the organization he established an alliance of other prominent Colombian drug lords. This included the Ochoa brothers (Jorge Luis, Juan David, and Fabio); Jose Gonzalo Rodriguez Gacha, aka El Mexicano, known for his routes and partnerships in Mexico; and Carlos Lehder, an experienced pilot and drug trafficker. Escobar had much of his family involved in his operation including his brother Roberto as the cartel's accountant. Also there was his right hand man and chief advisor, his cousin Gustavo Gaviria who controlled most of the financial aspects of the organization. It can be disputed that Gustavo was the brains of the operation, however he kept a low profile in contrast to Escobar's natural charisma and leadership qualities.

One of the keys to success for the Medellin Cartel was their creative methods of illegal distribution. One of their biggest methods to easily distribute their product was thru corrupt bribes of local officials. However they also had other transport methods such as hiding the cocaine in balloon pellets that could be transferred by mules to carry thru international customs. For bigger loads they incorporated smaller private jets to arrive at loading drop zones, which could then be transferred to trucks. The Cartel also used advanced strategies of decoy routes and even misinformation to confuse heightened attention from the authorities. And of course when all else failed and their route was interrupted then violence would take into effect. 

The operation quickly began to thrive and brought about a cocaine boom from the late 1970s to early 1980s, throughout Latin America and into Florida. The cartel was smuggling tons of cocaine worldwide and at it's height was bringing in $200 million a day. However this major boom of profit suddenly concerned the United States government, specifically since Miami had become a new major hub for drug dealings. While the Medellin Cartel was bringing in massive profit, they had to simultaneously establish a paramilitary organization to fight off their various enemies such as the United States, Colombian authorities, other criminal cartels (such as the Cali Cartel), and even guerilla organizations such as M19.

Muerte a Secuestradpres (Death to Kidnappers)

In 1981 the Medellin Cartel established a paramilitary organization to defend their economic interests against their many enemies. This was referred to as Muerta a Secuestradores "Death to Kidnappers". The MAS ushered in a new era of violence throughout Colombia where anyone who tried to bring down the cartel was answered with terror. Escobar used this new form of muscle to assassinate any political or prominent leader who sought to oppose him. Heavy funds from the Medellin cartel were poured into this branch to recruit fighters, weapons, communications, and even propaganda against new waves of Communism brought on by the M19 guerilla groups. Another branch of this organization was the Oficina de Envigado, a collection agency that used violent tactics to settle unpaid debts. 

While Escobar began to pour heavy funds into his military organization he also contributed heavily into the infrastructure of Colombia. This included new building projects of roads, bridges, parks, schools, football stadiums, and health clinics. He quickly became popular with the general public thru these financial contributions and even considered a run for political office. He assassinated various political opponents who sought to bring down his cocaine empire such as Rodrigo Lara and Luis Carlos Galan. By 1984 Escobar was forced to withdraw from the public political life after he was accused of various murders and an arrest warrant was issued against him by the United States.

By the mid to late 1980s Escobar's public image quickly began to decline as he ramped up his acts of terrorism against political opponents. At this point both the United States (DEA and CIA) and Colombian authorities were actively pushing for his arrest. In an effort to stay ahead of them Escobar made unlikely alliances with the M19 terrorist organization and the Cali Cartel. In 1985 Escobar funded the M19's assault on the Supreme Court of Bogota which killed 43 civilians. He also organized the bombing of a domestic flight in 1989 in an effort to assassinate the presidential candidate Cesar Gaviria who was not on the plane. The bombing killed all 107 passengers onboard. Escobar also bombed the Department of Security 9 days later in another failed assassination attempt, that still killed 63 innocent civilians.

The Downfall of the Cartel

By 1991 Escobar decided to surrender to the Colombian authorities on the terms that he could be self-imprisoned. He promised to cease his operations at his new "prison" residence of La Catedral overlooking Medellin. However it did not take long for authorities to realize that Escobar was still managing his cartel and committing crimes. By 1992 Escobar was forced to go into hiding as a national manhunt began for him by the Colombian Search Bloc, the US Authorities, and the Cali Cartel. The Medellin Cartel quickly began to collapse at this point while Escobar hid from the authorities. Escobar had many chances to flee his country at this point, but he proudly chose to stay there hoping to strike a deal that would restore his prominence. 

On December 2nd of 1993, Escobar was located in a residential neighborhood in Medellin with intel provided by the United States secret service. The Colombian Search Bloc carried out the mission to arrest Escobar at the scene, however a gunfight ensued. While trying to escape on the rooftops, Escobar was shot and killed in the head. His death marked the abrupt end to the Medellin Cartel and the quick takeover by the Cali Cartel. Escobar's death was met with mixed reaction, and some 25,000 people attended his funeral. While most saw him as a ruthless violent drug lord, others saw him as a Robin Hood who gave much of his wealth back to the poor.   

Colombia Trip 2024

This past week I finally set foot in my mother's home country of Colombia for the first time. As part of my heritage, this country has been on my bucket list for some time now.. While my mother grew up in Venezuela, she was actually born in Segovia, Colombia. I've visited Venezuela three times throughout my life (the last time being in 1998) but have never been to Colombia. We planned the trip about a year ago, my mom, dad Ofelia, Andres, and Gabriel. It certainly was an adventure with many ups-and-downs, but ultimately it was a success with many great memories. 

Colombia is a country that often gets a bad reputation due to it's history with cocaine trafficking. However it's arguably one of the most beautiful countries I have ever seen due to it's endless green mountains. I remember Costa Rica had a similar terrain of rolling green plantations, but not to the scale of the Andes mountains. Almost every place we went to, every village to every turn on the road had a heavenly backdrop. Not to mention the people were very friendly and the food was as delicious as I expected. 

Day 1- Traveling to Colombia

We set out on from my house on Wednesday October 3 to catch our flight at 6am. We took Andres' car to the economy airport parking and had to check into the front desk to get our boarding passes printed. I remember one of the older ladies working for American Airlines was not very friendly. We however boarded the plane fine and made it to Miami by about 9am. There we met up with Gabriel and had some breakfast at a hot-dog stand called Nathan's. 

Our flight to Medellin left at about 10:30 am and took a good 3 and a half hours. I was stuck in the middle seat and surrounded by a group of drunk Colombians. I however put my headphones on and watched the movie Frida to make things go by quicker. When we arrived to Medellin, and left the plane outside to walk towards the airport I instantly got a feeling of Deja Vu, reminiscent of arriving to Maracaibo in 1998. However this feeling of excitement quickly simmered when we had to wait for over 2 hours in the migration line. I don't think I'd ever been in a slower line at the airport and made for a rather exhausting experience.

However things only got worse, once we finally cleared all the customs inspections. Our car rental reservation thru Alamo was no longer available. It appeared they just gave it away which I found to be quite shocking and devastating. We were in a state of panic for a little bit, trying to come up with a plan B. My mom wanted to take the bus to Medellin, but it would have been difficult with all our luggage, and then to find a connection to Sopetran. My dad was then able to find a different car rental place, that had a more expensive Chevy Tahoe available. We decided it was our best and only option, however we then ran into bank errors. Luckily the car rental people there were very friendly and allowed us to put down a $500 deposit and return the next day so we could figure out our bank issues.

So finally by around 5pm we had a car to leave the airport and make our 2 hour trip to Sopetran. Gabriel bravely volunteered to drive us thru the hilly roads, and rush-hour traffic of Medellin. This was some of the wildest driving and traffic I had ever seen, with motorcycles everywhere! The motorbikes would weave all around cars, often cutting right thru the middle lanes. Once we cleared the city traffic, driving up-and-down mountains, around tight corners, and steep hills made for more challenging driving. We ate dinner at a highway stop by around 7pm, I ordered some steak, potatoes, an arepa, and my first Colombian beer Aquila. The final approach to our BnB  on country dirt roads was also challenging, but we finally found it by around 8:30pm. We took a quick swim before crashing to sleep.

Day 2- Guatape 

That morning we all woke up quite early to catch the sunrise, and get the first daylight view of our BnB. Gabriel picked an amazing hotel, with a pool and a heavenly view of a valley surrounded by endless green mountains. The neighborhood was surrounded by many animals such as cows, chickens, and all kinds of dogs. Our first step that day was to return to the airport to pay off the car rental. I was still a bit frustrated that morning due to Alamo's car failure, the bank card errors, and also that I couldn't get my mom's international phone service to work (mine did however work). I came up with the idea to visit Guatepe, since we would be driving eastward towards the airport. 

On our way there we first stopped at another highway restaurant for breakfast. I had my first cup of delicious Colombian coffee there as well as an arepa with cheese and shredded beef. I was amazed with the delicious cheese flavor there, which my mom told me was not available in the United States. After breakfast we arrived to the airport and met up with the car rental people. The payment went thru this time, and it was a done deal which was a great relief. We then pressed on to the iconic Penol rock of Guatape, while it began to rain. The rock soars an impressive 656 feet above ground, surrounded by a vast reservoir. This was actually my preferred destination to stay, but I was still quite satisfied with staying at Sopetran.

My dad, Gabriel, Andres, and myself climbed up the 708 steps of the Penol rock and got some high views of the area. I bought some souvenirs before we returned to the car, and it was now my turn to drive since Gabriel was tired. I first drove us to the nearby city of Guatape, which was loaded with tourists. We could not find parking and I had to drive thru the busy streets of Guatape, which was very challenging in the massive Tahoe SUV. We finally did find some parking and walked around the beautiful colorful city. For lunch we had some empanadas, pastelitos, and pastries (which were quite average but still satisfactory). On the way home we stopped at a highway station to buy some beer and wine for dad. We arrived that evening at the BnB and took a nice swim in the pool.

That evening for dinner we went to Sopetran and ate at a nice Mexican/Italian restaurant. I ordered some very tasty tacos and a beer. Everyone enjoyed their meal. We then walked around the main plaza for a little bit at night, and found some desserts as well as a grocery store. The plaza was a typical busy Latin American scene, with the church at it's focal point, a park in the middle, and a square of shops and restaurants. We once again went to bed quite early that night by around 9ish all very exhausted from our busy day of exploring.

Day 3- Sopetran

Probably one of our wildest days occurred on Saturday in Sopetran. My mom had wanted to visit the town market that day and also had planned to visit a local doctor. Andres also made personal plans to get a haircut. The town market was actually quite disappointing and small with maybe no more than 20 small stands. I ordered some empanadas while the others ordered some hallacas. I found a store that sold some coffee and talked with some local women there for a little bit. We then found Andres' barbershop which took over an hour. While this happened, Gabriel, mom, and myself explored the local streets and found the house of the doctor mom had planned to visit later that day. Her appointment was not until 12:30 that afternoon, so after Andres' haircut we decided to visit Santa Fe de Antioquia.

We drove straight to the iconic bridge of Santa Fe known as the Puente Colgnate de Ocidente. It was a long walk from the parking lot to the bridge, which Gabriel, Andres, and myself made while mom, dad, and Ofelia took a small taxi. The bridge was pretty cool, over the Cauca River, which only allowed pedestrian traffic and not automobiles to cross. After we crossed it we ordered some tasty drinks, I got a mango juice. Before returning to Sopetran, we realized Ofelia had lost her purse which led to another distressing moment. Ofelia and Mom were able to take a taxi back to the cafe where we ordered our juices and luckily they found her purse there with the store owner.

By around 1pm we dropped mom off at her doctor's appointment and decided to get some beers and lunch at the Sopetran plaza. We sat outside a bar, surrounded by loud music, amongst the rest of the Sopetran locals conducting their daily business. This quickly became a drunken fest mostly of me and Gabriel testing all the different Colombian beers. We tried about 8 different beers a piece, and decided the Pilsen and Aguila were our favorites. Although the bar did not offer any wine for dad, the bartender was able to provide some spiked juice from a nearby store. Dad also bought us a round of empanadas, pastelitos, and pan con queso and then I did as well. Andres also dropped in on us from time-to-time and bought us some pastries. I remember at that moment realizing how cheap everything was but also how honorable all the people there were. 

We were quite drunk by around 3pm and having a spontaneously good time, but unfortunately mom was not. Her appointment took far too long then she expected and she had to withdraw more money to pay the doctor and also buy some expensive medicine. Dad, Ofelia, and myself went to church at around 5pm while Gabriel went home to rest, and mom and Andres shopped around the plaza. For dinner we went to a restaurant nearby overlooking a hillside. I ordered a typical Colombian dish of chinchurron, eggs, rice, arepa, chorizo, and bean soup. Gabriel said his burger was the best he ever tasted. Unfortunately mom had a light soup and left early since she was not feeling well. That evening at our hotel we swam at the pool for a little before crashing.

Day 4: Medellin

On Sunday morning we drove out to spend the day in the busy and chaotic city of Medellin. My plan was to navigate us thru the town using the metro system. On our way in we stopped at another highway restaurant with an amazing mountain overlook. I ordered a very tasty arepa with cheese and chorizo. It was a rainy morning, but we all enjoyed the setting, the food, our energetic young waitress, and the incredible balcony views. We then continued our drive, and found parking as planned in the Poblado district, a safer more wealthy neighborhood. From there we made a 10-min walk to the metro and bought a balance of 12 fares. 

We took the metro north from Poblado to the Parque Barrio stop at the heart of the city, where the famous Plaza Botero was. It was here we saw the iconic Rafael Uribe Palace of Culture, with it's chess-like architecture. In this plaza are 23 sculptures donated by the famous Colombian artist Fernando Botero. All of the sculptures are made of bronze and have a unique style of obesity. The plaza was loaded with tourists, street performers, but also many beggars. So we moved rather quickly around the main Cultural museum, taking pictures of the sculptures, getting some street food, and then back onto the metro.

We took the metro further north to the Universidad stop to visit the Botanical Garden, one of Ofelia's requests. From the metro stop was a good 15-min walk to the garden, which was free but a rather dull visit. We then searched the area for some street food and made our way into a food court near the metro station. The place was packed and we all went separate ways within the court to buy food. Gabriel and Andres ordered Chinese food, and I settled for some chicken wings and French fries which were not all that good. We found a table upstairs, and dad was raving about this hot dog he ordered, so we ordered some more from a different place. But the hot dog was cold and one of the worse I had ever had. 

After a disappointing time at the garden and lunch, we bought 12 more fares to continue our exploration of the city. I led us south on the Metro line to connect at San Antonio which was packed with soccer fans going to watch the Independiente Medellin match. I had really wanted to see the game, but nobody else did, so I knew that idea was out of the question. We took the metro west to it's last stop at San Javier, then transferred to the cable cars which offered incredible views. These cables cars were used by the lower class residents to reach their homes in the mountains. We took the cable ride all the way around, back to the San Javier metro, back to the San Antonio connection, and back south to Poblado without even having to buy an additional fare.

We then walked back to our parking lot in Poblado, and I had hoped we could have dinner and drinks at this lively social scene but mom and Ofelia were too exhausted from the day. We then returned to Sopetran that evening, and rested and swam in the pool for a little bit. That night mom and Ofelia stayed in while the boys went out for dinner and drinks in Sopetran. I remember we all felt a little out of place without having mom as our key translator. Some of the drunken locals were even making some jokes at us, but we all brushed it off without any problems. We got a beer outside the plaza for a bit, then found a restaurant on the 2nd floor overlooking the plaza. I ordered some steak, rice, and salad and a beer. We also ordered some to-go food for mom. We then bought some desserts and some more beer at the grocery store before returning home for the night.

Day 5- Jardin

That morning I was quite disappointed when I heard mom randomly wanted to visit Jardin for the day. I knew this would be a 3-hour trip in the car we would have to take both ways. She also made plans to paraglide in Jardin, which was something I would have rather done in Medellin. The drive was once again quite difficult, on a one-lane road with continuous sharp turns. We found an empanada store for breakfast along the road and they were actually quite tasty. We finally made it to Jardin by around 11am and it was actually a pretty town. It had colorful buildings similar to Guatape and a beautiful church. The town had a much more peaceful vibe to it, compared to Sopetran, perhaps due to it's abundance of plants in the plaza.

After we found our parking, mom was able to speak with the clerk there and get information on the local paragliding business. The clerk then called in two taxis for us, and we rode them thru town to the paragliding store. There we made reservations at 1:30pm and then Dad, Andres, and I walked back to the town plaza. For lunch we found a store outside the plaza and ordered the usual fried food of empanadas, pastelitos, pan de queso, juices, and coffee. As usual we were joined by begging dogs, I remember this one in particular had such a jovial demeanor about him. After lunch we walked around a bit, and I bought a bag of coffee beans to take home with me. 

We then went back to the paragliding store as our appointment was approaching, but we waited for quite some time. The tour guides finally arrived at around 2pm, and brought us terrible news that the clouds were too unsafe to jump. This was upsetting to all of us, but especially mom who had been looking forward to this for some time. I then took to the wheel to make the long drive back to Sopetran. I remember getting out of Jardin was once again challenging to get thru the narrow streets of pedestrians, while it began to rain. Driving on the main ride was also quite difficult for it's sharp turns, but more so having to pass slower trucks in oncoming traffic. 

For dinner we dropped in on the town of San Geronimo (where our house cleaner was from). I felt like it had quite an Asian (Saigon) feel to it. We went into a supermarket to buy some items, I bought some snacks and such. For dinner we ate at a large steakhouse, called El Mamut which happened to be the best meal we had yet. I ordered churassco "steak" with salad, potatoes, and a bear which was some of the best steak I'd ever had. Our waiter was a chatty young guy, who happened to be from Segovia. For dessert I ordered some incredible ice cream at a store near the restaurant. After this we went back to the BnB to swim a little before bed.

Day 6- Medellin

That Tuesday was to be our last day and I was eager we make it back to Medellin one more time to see Comuna 13. Mom convinced us to drop in once again on the town of San Geronimo for breakfast. Gabriel dropped mom, Ofelia, and myself off at a store while he found parking. From the store we walked around the plaza and found a breakfast restaurant where the other guys joined us. The restaurant was within a hotel and was a nice experience. I once again ordered the arepa, cheese, and chorizo combo with some coffee, and mango juice. After breakfast Gabriel drove us all into Medellin. My plan was to park in Poblado once again for safety reasons, but Gabriel boldly sought parking in Comuna 13 district.     

This region was renown for it's poverty and crime, and I had read it would be best to stay on the main tourist path. We spent some time trying to find parking in this neighborhood, and at one point we almost hit a dead end. We finally got lucky however when a local flagged us down to park in front of his house and he insisted he would guard the car. From there we walked to the main strip of Comuna 13 which was a hill of stairs and escalators surrounded by all sorts of shops and colorful graffiti. It felt like walking thru Venice Beach or something in California that really catered to the hippy crowd. While we continued to climb upward, the views got all the more incredible once again of the Medellin valley. 

I eventually ordered a Michelada drink, which had beer and liquor in it, but I felt was rather overpriced and not that tasty. Dad, Gabriel, and myself continued upward to a bar overlooking the valley and ordered some beer and shots. The trip down was even more enjoyable as we saw some breakdance performers and freestyle rappers. By this point I had a good buzz going. I bought some souvenirs, as well as managed to haggle with a street vendor on a Colombian soccer jersey. We then made our way back to the car and were glad to see it was still in good shape and paid the local a good tip for watching it. 

We left Comuna 13 by around 2pm and then drove to Poblado to visit the wealthy social district of Provenza. We managed to find parking and walked around for a bit, while it began to rain. However the area was more known for it's nightlife scene and just wasn't quite happening. We eventually found a restaurant indoor and all of us ordered the special of the day. This included some soup, rice, salad, and beef. We then walked around a little more and bought some more items, including souvenirs and pastries but did not stay too long in the area due to the rain. 

That evening we returned to the BnB for a little while, swam, and finished off the last of our beers. We then drove back into Sopetran to once again eat at the mountainside restaurant, renown for it's hamburgers. Our waitress was young but very sweet and had such a cute accent. I once again ordered a plate of churrassco "steak" which was also very tasty. Mom ordered the hamburger after hearing Gabriel's reviews but was not as impressed. We all ordered some mango juice and ice cream for dessert. We originally planned to visit Sopetran after this one last time for drinks, but instead went back to the BnB to just relax on our last night. 

Day 7: Guarne

That morning as we set off for the airport, we were quite concerned about our car drop-off (which had a knick on the mirror), our boarding passes, but more so due to Hurricane Milton. This was a reported category 5 hurricane in the Tampa Bay region, and we were unable to reroute our flight. We arrived early and the car drop off went quite smoothly and I managed to get a receipt. However on the drive we received notice that our flight from Miami to Indianapolis was to be delayed until the following day. At this point we figured we would just have to spend the night in the Miami Airport. As we then waited in line to get our boarding passes for Medellin to Miami, we got the update that this flight was also postponed to the following day. So we were now stuck in Medellin for another day. 

However I honestly saw this as okay news, and an opportunity to get a bonus day in this foreign beautiful country. Luckily I did not have any pressing engagements back at home, aside from having to schedule an extra day of dog-sitting for Max. Unfortunately that was not the case for Andres who had planned to go into work on Thursday, and could not find his car keys. Nonetheless we made the best out of a bad situation and booked a hotel near the airport in the town of Guarne. It was one of the cheaper deals I could find but really had no idea what to expect. We were in for quite a surprise. 

We got a taxi to take us to the hotel, and picked up a case of Aquila beer along the way. This hotel happened to be a hostel with a colorful façade and a botanical garden of fountains, plants, and flowers. Furthermore we had the whole campus to ourselves and the host was very accommodating. Since we were his only guests, he ensured we had a car ride back to the airport as well as helped us arrange lunch and dinner without even having to leave the site. It was a very relaxing day on what was a rather magical area. There were hiking trails, green grass, and tropical flowers of all sorts. There were hammocks all over, and various lounge spots with such unique décor of antiques and foreign flare. 

For lunch everyone ordered guisado with soup, beef, plantanos, and rice. Madre then ordered a round of pastries for desert and the host, John, treated us to coffee. We spent most the afternoon just resting and exploring the garden grounds while John played classical Colombian folk music on the speakers. I drank beer and took lots of pictures quite inspired by the plants, which included several coffee plants. John actually gave me some coffee beans pulled from one of the plants and explained to me the process of growing the beans. Although I only understood a little of it, I'm going to attempt to grow these inside my house, but know it's going to be a longshot. 

At nighttime the hostel took on a different magical element, illuminated by lights. We had arroz con pollo for dinner and John offered us a unique drink of pop mixed with beer. Gabriel, Andres, and I then went into the hot tub for a little bit which was the perfect temperature. We tried to go to sleep early that night knowing that we would have to wake up at 3am to get to the airport. It took me a couple hours to finally fall asleep on the top floor of our family cabin. Dad woke us up around 1am, clearly concerned about the flight situation, and it was hard to fall back asleep after that. 

Day 8: Return Trip to Indiana

We all got up and out to the exit of the hostel by around 3am as planned, where the taxi driver would pick us up. It was a long walk however up a very steep hill with our luggage. Furthermore it was raining and the taxi driver showed up a good 20 minutes late. The car was too small to fit us all, so we had to get a 2nd taxi to carry the rest. We got to the airport by around 3:45am and waited at the American Airlines front desk for a little while. It then took an additional long wait for the front desk clerk to get us all checked in with our boarding passes. 

Going thru security was quick and easy, however we once again ran into problems at the Migration checkpoint. Madre was unable to go thru since her Colombian passport was expired. Although her American passport was valid, since she was born in Colombia she also had to present a Colombian passport which was expired. She had to visit the migration manager at the airport to get clearance to leave. Once in the gate we had some pastries and coffee for breakfast. Ofelia was feeling quite sick at this point, and Andres and Gabriel got pulled aside for a random security check which really delayed their boarding. Thankfully however we all made it onboard fine and departed by around 6am happy to be returning home. 

I sat by the window and watched as we departed this beautiful country as it rained. I then watched the movie Fall Guy on the plane, starring Ryan Gosling, which was quite funny. We arrived to Miami by around 10am local time and once again had to go thru various immigration checkpoints. I remember being a little nervous about my coffee beans passing the foreign security check. This was not a problem however and we all got thru fine. For lunch we went to TGI Fridays and most of us ordered good ole fashioned hamburgers, while mom and Ofelia ordered some ribs. After lunch we parted ways with Gabriel, who was on a separate flight to Nashville. 

We had a good 3 hour layover until our flight left for Indianapolis. This included various gate switches, some photo uploads, and some snack and drink purchases. I bought a coffee and everyone a round of tasty guava pastries. Dad also later bought a round of pastries, and drinks for the plane ride. I remember sitting around the Miami airport, seeing more attractive Miami women then Colombian women. (I had expected to be blown away by the beautiful Colombian women as I was in Maracaibo, but that was not quite the case on this trip). Surprisingly the weather in Miami seemed quite fine despite the ongoing hurricane Milton nearby. We finally boarded our plane by around 3:30pm. 

The plane ride was one of the most empty rides I'd ever been on, which was nice and spacious for a change. I watched the movie Monkey Man, which was good but very violent. We arrived at around 6pm, and Andres was on the spot to get his key situation figured out. Unfortunately he was never able to find his car keys so he had to call in a locksmith to create a new key for him. I joined him on the shuttle ride to the parking lot airport, where the contractor was already waiting for us with the key. Although this cost him a lot of money, thankfully it resolved his problem, and got us all home okay. This essentially brought an end to our week long trip to Colombia. It was no doubt an adventure full of many ups-and-downs with challenges galore, but I think that made it to be one of the more memorable trips in a very long while. I was simply blown away by the beautiful landscape of this country and hope to visit it again several more times.